Biking with Bill

A PLEASANT RIDE IN CORN COUNTRY


It is 100 degrees in this part of South Dakota this afternoon and our cycling group couldn’t care less. We are in Mitchell, SD and have completed the 75 mile ride from Chamberlain. By noon our bikes were in the barn -so to speak-, and we were enjoying the sights of this farming town.

It was a most pleasant Friday morning ride on very quiet farm country roads which paralleled I-90 on a straight shot into Mitchell, SD. The weather was perfect; sunny, no wind, and not yet reaching the high temperatures of the afternoon. I again felt good on the bike; healthy, hydrated, and enjoying the ride, fully recuperated from the previous two days. We really had fun today.

Annie (England) and Lois (CO) caught up with us as we were riding 2 abreast on a country road and passing corn field after corn field. They began singing: “This land is your land, This land is my land....”, it was an amusing yet appropriate reaction to our surroundings.

We stopped for Gatorade and ice cream at a convenience store at the 4 corners in Mt Vernon at the 58 mile mark. A few of the local farmers started a friendly conversation about our bicycle trip and local lore. They strongly advised us to attend tonight’s RODEO in Mitchell for a great cowboy show. Some of us plan to do just that. Photos tomorrow.

Mitchell, SD is famous for the unbelievable CORN PALACE- “the Boston Garden of the Midwest”, named because numerous basketball games , stage shows, proms and graduations are held in this multi-use facility each year. The one square block building hosts 500,000 tourists (like us) each year–because it is a “building covered with CORN”. Truly. Hugh murals–inside and out–are made entirely of corn. It really is “A- MAIZE- ING!

It is Bastille Day in France. On our bikes we had passed through farm land planted in sun flowers–and made reference to the photos of the Tour de France with the sun flower fields in the background. At lunch in Mitchell we watched today’s Tour and applauded the success of Landis, an American, retaining his yellow jersey, and a member of Discovery Team winning today’s stage race.

It was a beautiful bike ride day...and it’s not over yet.

Bill

HALF WAY –USA
(Note:See day 24 posted today)
I was not up to par today following yesterday’s experience with dehydration . Many riders were in a recovery mode. I had serious doubts as to whether I would be able to ride today, right up until the time to depart. I thought I would try to ride to the first SAG—and then see if I felt well enough to continue. It worked out fine. I felt better as the day went on.

We had crossed the Missouri River in Pierre and are now on Central Time (We lost an hour of sleep!)

The ride today was 84 miles to the river city of Chamberlain, SD, situated high on a bluff above the Missouri River.

We rode out of Pierre on a bike path while getting showered by the park’s sprinklers. The route was along the River, which is dammed up and forms “the world’s largest reservoir”here. We followed the River all day. Our CCC group planned to take it easy in the expected 100 plus degree heat today, and we did. It was overcast part of the day– a break for us looking to avoid the sun. We biked along with another touring group that is following the Lewis and Clark Trail.

The first SAG was at the HALF WAY POINT ACROSS AMERICA–1800 miles in 25 days.

We had a few climbs today and it was again very HOT, but the winds were milder and even cooling at times. We paced ourselves–and drank and drank.

We had some beautiful views of the Missouri River from high on the bluffs. The water appeared clear and the river was free of barge traffic. It is as impressive as the Mississippi, and as big in several places.

I am feeling much better after today’s ride.
And I wanted to show you my picture of George at Mt Rushmore

Bill

The events of today’s ride unfolded in ways I had not expected. I did learn from this ride, but I hope that I will never have to repeat the experience. It was the most difficult cycling challenge I have ever faced—without a doubt. It left me physically drained and disappointed.

The route was 117 miles from Wall to Pierre, SD (pronounced PEER) , the State Capital. We rode out of town at 5:30 am into wide open big sky country. There were no services until Pierre; no convenience stores for food or drink. The temperature would be 106 degrees, “the hottest day since 1936" according to the weatherman. We faced unfavorable winds for 70 miles of this route. Winds at a punishing 20 mph with gusts that moved our bikes. The prairie grasses were bent over in the wind. We struggled to get above 10 mph on a regular basis. There is a saying on the prairies: “There is nothing between you and the wind but a barbed wire fence”. That was true today. The winds howled through our helmets. There was not an inch of shade anywhere–we were totally exposed all day long–no clouds, no trees. The heat soaked in. We were caked in salty sweat.

We climbed nearly 4,000 ft over the course of 100 miles on mostly long rolling hills, one after the other. It was a long and physically demanding cycling day.

I rode with Dan, Keith, Joyce and Dale until flat fires and hills separated us. By then Joyce and I were well to the front of the majority of cyclists–stretched out over 30 miles on this 117 mile route. We were ahead of the support vehicles—and the water. We relied on the 3 SAG stops for our only food and water, but they were hours apart. Our water bottles were full and cold when leaving the SAG, but suitable for making tea shortly thereafter. It was so HOT!

We left the last SAG at the 83 mile mark. The wind held us to 10 mph–we had over 3 hours left. The hill climbs continued, the temperature hit 100 degrees, no shade, and finally no food and no water.

At the 100 mile mark I got off the bike. I was nauseous and felt faint, I began to cramp. I sat at he side of the road waiting for water–and resting. I wanted to continue. The van arrived full of cyclists with their bikes on the roof. I thought with water and some rest I could go on. Against the advice of others-- I did. I reached 101.4 miles, 16 miles short of Pierre....and could not go on. I was cramping in both legs–I could not stay on the bike. It was over. I stopped to wait to be picked up. I could not finish the course...I was completely drained, physically unable to continue, and terribly disappointed.

There were more than half of our cycling group that did not complete the course. A sheriff’s car picked up2 overheated bikers, one was taken to the hospital at 120 mph for an ice bath and IV fluids. Another rider went to the emergency room later in the evening for an IV. Two had crashed earlier in the day. We were a beaten crew. I have never felt worse after cycling or any athletic endeavor. I was totally dehydrated and drained of all energy.


Some cyclists made it. I congratulate them. A few were out on the road for 13 hours in that heat and wind and hilly terrain. One cyclist hitch-hiked and came into town in a pick up truck.

I’ll chalk this one up to experience: Keep hydrated, keep eating, and stay within range of the support vans.

Tomorrow will be a better day,

Bill

REUNION RIDE
Note: See Day 22 posted today

We rode out of Rapid City through 5 miles of city and suburban streets on a sunny, warm morning. We had every expectation of a leisurely 57 mile essentially flat ride to Wall, SD. We planned to be finished early and relax for the 117 mile marathon to Pierre tomorrow. Things don’t always work out as expected!

Steve (CO), Joyce’s brother, who rode the Cross Country Challenge in 2004 with Dan, Tim and Kathryn, Joyce, Dale and me, was visiting and had his bike. We had dinner and planned to ride together to Wall. It began on a happy note, but circumstances turned against us. The bridge was out on our scheduled route , so we were diverted to I-90 ...AN INTERSTATE ...for an extra 20 miles UGH! , narrow bike lane, debris, rumble strips, etc.

We did get off and have some great rolling hills in the unpopulated South Dakota prairie lands. We could see the peaks of the Badlands way off in the distant South. Then we were back on I-90 for the last 20 miles.

In the final 5 miles the trouble began—road repaving– with new hot tar and stones. Yes- we rode through it until we could go no further. Our tires were caked with tar, the police were “bonkers” about bikes on what was now a one lane highway. We stopped. The SAG and construction trucks came along to carry us and the bikes over the remaining 3 mile stretch of road work. It was hot. The bikes were a mess. Not a pleasant experience. A stop at the Dairy Queen on the outskirts of Wall helped.

At the motel we all spent a good deal of time cleaning the bikes and tires. I bought a new set of Specialized Armadillo Elites and put them on as I was ready for a necessary change. A little grumbling was heard as you can imagine, but all is well. Chalk it up to “experience’

Wall, SD was so named because it was built on the edge of the northern extension of the “Badlands wall”, and is home to the famous Wall Drugs, which survived the Depression by offering free ice water to thirsty travelers and by building its reputation on friendly service. It is now the main tourist attraction in town.

We’ll be on the road by 5:30am tomorrow to minimize our riding time in 100 degree heat.

Bill 7/11/70

SCULPTURES IN STONE


Today’s bike ride to Rapid City, SD may be the best example yet of why we are here, why we are determined to ride across America, and why the experience is so unforgettable. The challenge of the terrain with 5455 feet of climbing and 6% and 10% descents was one factor today. Being overwhelmed by the landscapes and landmarks of this country was another. Sharing these experiences with friends-new and old- is so satisfying and memorable.

The weather was overcast with some sprinkles on occasion, but we didn’t have the debilitating heat often encountered in South Dakota this time of year. We will take the rain and clouds.

This was the day in the Black Hills with visits to the Crazy Horse Memorial and Mt Rushmore. A day we looked forward to... and were not disappointed.

Eight miles out of Hot Springs we encountered Wind Cave National Park and saw a sign “Warning! Large Wildlife On The Road”, followed by one that said: “Buffalo Are Dangerous–Do Not Approach!” I did not see any buffalo today (some did)—only scores of prairie dogs standing at their mounded homes. I enjoyed the scenery and the ride through rolling hills in open prairie land with the Black Hills all around us.

We entered the Black Hills National Forest. One can see how the Black Hills region got its name. The heavy coverage of dark green coniferous trees that cover these hills/mountains give it that appearance from a distance.

Passing through the town of Custer, we made a turn to see the “World’s Largest Mountain Carving”, now in progress: the colossal Memorial to Crazy Horse. It honors the North American Indian of all tribes , but is a sculpture in stone of the Lakota warrior Chief who defeated Custer at Little Big Horn. It is a “”monumental” undertaking in size and scope. It is a wonder to see and visit.

We then went through the most incredible big boulder rock canyons as we approached Mt Rushmore. At one point we stopped and looked behind us to see the head of George Washington carved in the mountain –a side view of the Memorial.

The ABBer’s in bicycle gear drew much attention in the crowd of hundreds as we posed in front of “The Four Presidents”. What a monument to American heros–and what a stage; the magnificent Black Hills of South Dakota. It is easy to understand why these Hills were a sacred place to the Indians. They are so different from the Cascades and Tetons, but certainly on and equal plane.

A 10% fast descent took us from Mt Rushmore to the pleasant tourist town of Keystone for lunch at the Trail Driver Café for a Buffalo Burger.

More swift downhills brought us into Rapid City and the completion of our TERRIFIC cycling day.

Bill

GREAT FACES, GREAT PLACES Note: See Day 20 also posted today.
Photo: Ft Casper


There was no rainbow as we left Lusk, WY in the morning rain, just dark skies and scattered showers all day. It rained for the first 30 miles– and the last 10– of today’s 92 mile bike ride to Hot Springs, South Dakota.

I rode most of the day with Keith (Iowa), Dan (CA), and “new guy” Dave from Syracuse, NY , who joined the group in Casper. We kept up a good pace all day hoping to outrun the chasing rains. We did not succeed, but the rain was not a big deal. We could see well and be seen by the limited Sunday traffic, and conditions were not slippery. We simply did the route in rain gear-when needed- and had to clean and lube our bikes well at the finish.

Just outside of Lusk, we got a kick out of a pack of 10 to 12 horses who galloped along beside us before finally pulling ahead. They playfully trotted until restrained by the fence line.

The countryside was a composite of grasslands (Buffalo Gap National Grasslands), mesas and buttes rising from the prairie until we reached the beginning of the Black Hills of South Dakota at the 70 mile mark of today’s ride.

Following the established pattern, we dismounted for photos at the South Dakota line-56 miles into the ride. I love the slogan on the border sign and license plates: Great Faces-Great Places, a reference to Mt Rushmore of course.

After turning onto Rt 18 East at Mule Creek Junction, we had a great descent into the town of Edgemont for our SAG at the 67 mile mark. From there we could see the famous Black Hills of South Dakota, and even see the ascending route ahead. We climbed for 4 miles, then descended at 6% for 2 miles, followed by another 1 mile climb before the final descent into Hot Springs...”Southern Gateway To The Black Hills”. Great day....so we had a little rain.

RECAP OF THE FIRST 21 DAYS:

After 19 days on the bike (and 2 rest days), I thought I’d recap just how far we have come on this ocean to ocean journey:
* We have cycled 1514 miles, averaging 80 miles per day.
* We have climbed over 52,000 feet.
*We have climbed through the mountain passes of the Cascades, the Tetons and have entered the
Black Hills.
* We are in our 4th State
* WE ARE HAVING A GREAT TIME!

Bill

LUCKY IN LUSK


Our ABB gang was treated to the festivities of the Legend of Rawhide Days upon arrival this afternoon in Lusk, WY. We were lucky t be here on this day for the celebration of the town’s major event of the year.

We stood under cover at the Covered Wagon Motel as the parade passed by in a dampening rain. Cowboys, Indians, covered wagons, saloon girls, as well as the local fire trucks spraying the crowd, were all part fo the show.

The rain and wind had held off for our 106 mile bike ride from Casper. We could see scattered rain showers falling in locations near us, but again --for the 20th day–we remained dry.

The day began on “road kill alley” as Keith (Iowa) called it. I counted 18 dead cottontail rabbits in the road in the first 18 miles. Keith said they were “mile markers”. We went through Glenn Rock (Home of the Herders), and then onto I-25 East for 14 miles of today’s ride. We crossed cattle guards (too many), saw numerous windmills, a few oil wells, and many snow barricades placed on the hill sides to limit the drifting of snow in the winter months. We saw the town sign in Lost Springs, WY which said “population 1".

We moved quickly through today’s century ride (averaging 17 mph and in under 6 hours). There was nothing to stop and look at or photograph. We were “between places” in the wild, wild West. We had a rest day behind us and favorable weather, including winds. We made the best of it, and had time to enjoy the town party in Lusk.

We are off to South Dakota tomorrow,

Bill