Biking with Bill

Day 50 Manchester to PORTSMOUTH,NH

2006-08-09T06:01:00.000-07:00

SIRENS AT THE SHORE

We rode in no particular formation. Fifty cyclists, all in team jerseys, were side by side on bikes in groups of 2 or 3 behind the police cruiser, its lights flashing. We could see and smell the Atlantic Ocean over the dunes along Rt 1 A. When he turned on the police siren to announce our arrival at Wallis Sands State Park we experienced all the combined emotions that accompany the end of a long journey, the rewarding completion of a goal, and reuniting with family and friends. We had successfully and safely met the challenge of crossing North America on a bicycle. The joy and pride we felt as we saw the crowd awaiting our arrival was one of life’s great moments. Fifty days across America –with all its adventures, challenges and memories–was over; we had reached the final “summit”: the beach at Portsmouth, NH.

We immediately walked or carried our bikes through the sand to the water’s edge and dunked the front tire in the surf, completing the ocean to ocean trek. Cameras worked overtime.

The 54 mile ride to the beach began in the rain on some narrow and heavily traveled roads, but it didn’t matter. It was our last day and final ride together. We stopped for coffee in Rye before forming up at a junior high school for a group photo and the ride to the beach.

Most of the group and our guests got together in the evening at Warren’s Lobster House in Kittery, ME for a cocktail party on the deck and a great lobster feast. My fraternity brother, Jim and his wife Carolyn, joined me as they had in 2004 at the completion of the Cross Country Challenge ride, along with a special guest from Florida.

Rails to Trails Conservancy, for whom I dedicated this ride, was well represented by Jennifer from the Washington, DC headquarters. She met “Team RTC” at the beach, joined us for dinner and the telling of “war stories” from the trip. In thanking the team for its efforts to raise funds, awareness, and membership in the Rails to Trails Conservancy she presented us all with new 2006 biking jerseys. Thanks to RTC. ( see www.railtrails.org)

We said our good-byes to our biking friends, hoping and even expecting that some of us will undoubtedly meet again.

It was a great group of individuals, a beautiful and challenging ride, a wonderful summer on the roads of America!

Proudly,

Bill

Day 49 Brattleboro to Manchester,NH

2006-08-08T06:02:00.000-07:00

ALMOST THERE !

We crossed the Connecticut River in the morning fog at 6;45 am and entered the State of New Hampshire. We were enroute to Manchester, 86 miles to the East, on what would be one of the most memorable biking days of the journey. It was a chilly Sunday morning in New England. We knew we were in for a long and difficult day in the mountains, in fact our computers at day’s end registered in excess of 6,000 feet of climbing. Today was considered our second most challenging climbing day of the trip. It was second only to the day to the top of the Teton Pass with its glorious descent into Jackson Hole, WY so many weeks ago.

Today’s topography chart got our ATTENTION. There were 3 separate climbs with grades in excess of 13%, including to the summit of Pitcher’s Mountain on Rt 123 near the town of Sullivan, NH. They all were challenging climbs, but slowly and confidently–with 48 days of conditioning in our favor–we cycled through.

The fog cleared quickly and soon we had a perfect summer day of weather. Clear blue skies, some puffy clouds, and comfortable temperature and humidity readings prevailed all day long. The bonus on today’s ride was the beautiful New Hampshire scenery. Postcard towns like Keene, Antrim, and Francetown were on the route. Someday I have to return to Keene, it looks “perfect” on a quiet Sunday morning in August. The rolling hills through green fields and woods made for an excellent biking experience. We were either climbing or sitting back and enjoying another downhill ride.

At the SAG in Francetown our friend Billy from the Mississippi Ride was waiting to see Dan, Joyce, and me. He was out for an afternoon ride and joined us for awhile. (He also presented us with biking socks quoting the motto of New Hampshire: “Live Free or Die”). We came to the bottom of the famous “Joe English Hill”, one of the 13% grade hills. Billy climbed it with us fearing he would be exposed in a negative way in this blog if he had turned around (as planned) at that point. He’s a great guy!

We rode into the busy city of Manchester at the end of an 8 hour biking day tired, but pleased with the kind of day we had all had. We now have only the “ceremonial” ride to the beach tomorrow and we will have successfully completed this incredible journey.

The ABB “banquet” was held this evening. The staff alternated in giving a recap–day by day– of our trek across America. We re-lived the adventures, storms, climbs and descents, cities visited, rest days, ferry and river crossings, headwinds, soaring temperatures, amazing escapades, the coming and going of segment riders etc. as they summed up our amazing ride across this immense and beautiful country. What a great story!

It was then OUR turn to speak. One by one, all of us spoke of what this trip had meant to us. To listen to the statements of fellow cyclists at the end of a journey of 3800+ miles in 50 days across America is an experience I wish I could share with all. It is heartwarming, emotional, uplifting and unforgettable. This is truly an amazing collection of people from all over the world whose common bond is cycling, and adventure, and a challenge. I am proud to be a part of it all.

Bill

Day 48 Troy, NY to Brattleboro, VT

2006-08-05T14:09:00.000-07:00

VERMONT’S GREEN MOUNTAINS

Some say “climbing mountains builds character”. If that is true, I am a better man today–along with my cycling buddies. We climbed two major summits of the Green Mountains and 5400feet on today’s beautiful 77 mile ride across lower Vermont.

It would be hard to pick a better route than we rode today. We left Troy on Rt 2, connecting with NY Rt 7, which became VT Rt 9 as we crossed the border into the picturesque town of Old Bennington. Some stopped to climb the stairs of the Bennington Monument (which looks like the Washington Monument). You could tell we were in Vermont: the old churches, the GREEN mountains, (actually the well named Green Mountains), the dirt auxiliary roads, the tourists etc. By plan I stopped on Main St in Bennington to meet again with Joan, a sorority sister of Betty’s, on the front porch of her husband Neil’s law offices. We caught up on Tri-Delt news.

Immediately outside of town we began what the route rap sheet called, “Climb next 10 miles”. Climb we did–slowly, steadily, past Haystack Mt Ski Area , and through the Bennington National Forest, and finally over the spine of the Green Mts. The descent was terrific!

We then cycled through the tourist town of Wilmington, VT , where we stopped at the SAG and at an ice cream shop. Then we climbed again–at mostly a 6% grade–riding along side the rapids of the Deerfield River. I was riding alone, hearing only the sounds of the river unless disturbed by a motor vehicle. It was a beautiful, sunny, Saturday with temperatures in the low 80's. The descent into Brattleboro was again a fun ride. It was a pleasurable, challenging biking day.

Tonight, I’ll have dinner with friends from Naples–the Clarks and the Jeffries–along with Kirk Jeffries (brother), a fellow cyclist from Minnesota.

Enjoying Vermont,

Bill

Day 47 Little Falls to Troy, NY

2006-08-04T12:56:00.000-07:00

I was unable to ride today. An upsetting case of intestinal flu kept me off the bike.

The 83 mile route from Little Falls to Troy, NY is exactly the same route I rode in 2004 on the Cross Country Challenge. Therefore, this Across America-North ride remains complete--I do not have a missing segment left unridden. Of course I would have preferred to have been on the bike with the rest of the crew, but today I could not.

I took photos of : 1) the countryside outside of Fonda, NY 2) a sign on the road reminding us to ride safetly these last few days--and a tribute to Kent 3) Steve and Barb (ME) on their tandem bike.

Hoping to ride tomorrow into Vermont,

Bill

Day 46 Syracuse to Little Falls, NY

2006-08-04T11:26:00.000-07:00

LITTLE FALLS ON THE ERIE CANAL

Our destination city today was Little Falls, NY (pop 4500), a one time manufacturing city that has unfortunately lost its base industries. It nevertheless has charm, some magnificent old buildings, and a great location along the Erie Canal, complete with an operating lock.

Exiting a city the size of Syracuse with its traffic and stop lights is never the most pleasant experience on a bike.. The ride became more enjoyable and rural as we rode parallel to the New York State Thruway through Canastota, Oneida, and Westmoreland and along the Mohawk River. The final 26 miles were on the Rt 5 Bike Route into Little Falls.

At dinner tonight our friend Kent, a fellow cyclist from Virginia, joined us after being released from the hospital for a broken collar bone injured in a fall today. We were all happy to see that he was in good spirits and will recover quickly.
But, we all wanted to arrive at the beach in New Hampshire TOGETHER, safe and sound. We all wish Kent the best. Good guy!

The entire group moves right along these days. After 46 days on the road, pedaling 80+ miles per day, we have all gotten stronger and more experienced as cyclists. We only have a few days left, and it is very clear that the group is enjoying themselves and each other on this cross country ride.

This has been a wonderful week for me . I was happy to be back in Central New York, near my hometown of Rome, NY. My family gathered to see me over the past 3 days. My Aunt Pat, Cousins Nancy and Carole and her daughter , Julie and her 6 week old baby, Anna cane to Henrietta. Chuck and Jackie, my brother and sister-in-law, visited in Syracuse for route rap and dinner. Today, my 98 year old mother, along with my sister, Ann, and Chuck and Jackie came to Little Falls for the afternoon. Nothing is better than time with your family!

Bill
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Day 45 Henrietta to Syracuse, NY

2006-08-02T18:08:00.000-07:00

SWELTERING TO SYRACUSE

The heat index was again 110 degrees today. Some severe thunderstorms were forecast for mid-afternoon. We had good reason to get on the road early and ride quickly.

We rolled out of the hotel parking lot in Henrietta at 6:20 am–having eaten only the quick continental breakfast. Keith (IA) and I rode together the full 93 miles to Liverpool (Syracuse), NY. We immediately ran into the detours mentioned at last night’s route rap. Nevertheless, there was some confusion on the part of many riders, including myself. A passing cyclist directed us toward Pittsford where we were to pick up Rt 31 E / also named NY State Bike Route 5. Apparently not all motorists recognize the fact that the marked lane on the side of the roadway is a BIKE LANE. We were actually stopped by an angry driver who asked, “ What makes you think you guys can ride on the road?” He threatened to call the police, and I invited him to do so. Unfortunately, we do from time to time experience unfounded antagonism toward cyclists, riding within the bounds of the law and common sense. These folks are a small , but vocal minority. Share the road!

Bike Route 5 had a wider than normal bike lane with an excellent road surface. We initially had some heavy traffic to contend with in a road construction zone near the town of Palmyra, but as the miles accumulated we had a more rural setting and less traffic. Palmyra, you will recall, was made famous by John Smith, founder of the Mormon Church. He and his followers departed Palmyra heading west and eventually settled in Utah. It is the only town in America that has 4 churches at one intersection, one on each corner.

Many small towns–some quite neat and interesting in appearance–were on our route today: Lyons, Clyde, Savannah, Tyre, Montezuma among them. We passed a section of the Erie Canal, which we will see occasionally as we cross NY State.

We were in Liverpool by 12:30. The thunderstorms and rain hit later in the afternoon, soaking many riders.

My brother, Chuck and sister-in-law Jackie, visited this afternoon and evening. They attended route rap and met many of the riders. We enjoyed a good dinner together.

There is no doubt we are in the East; the traffic volume has increased significantly.

Bill

Day 44 Niagara Falls to Henrietta, NY

2006-08-01T13:33:00.000-07:00

HOT ONE TO HENRIETTA

The August hot and humid weather was with us today on this the first day of the month. The forecasters were right on the button with their call for an “excessive heat” prediction of high nineties with winds from 15-25 mph from the SSW. We have been quick to learn that ANY wind with a WEST in it is a GOOD wind, as we are , of course, traveling East. We had some good tailwind support today on our 84 mile ride to Henrietta, NY, a suburb of Rochester.

We departed Niagara Falls this morning through an old and “tired” neighborhood and industrial area before 7:00 am. It was 85 degrees by 9:30, so we were anxious to get in the miles early. The country roads were in good condition in the agricultural and dairy farming area. The flags along a fence in Wheatland (see photo) were a reminder that we are back in the States, with our biking days in Canada now behind us.

I rode with Kirk (MN), a college professor in St Paul, for awhile this morning. He is a very interesting man, a friend of mine on the trip, and the brother of a Naples friend and neighbor. He is a “birder”, which I define as one who is interested in birds, seeks to find birds when traveling, and one who can quickly identify birds. He told me that he has identified more than 100 different birds on our cross country tour, mainly by their “calls”. In Minnesota he has a “life list” of 338 birds he has identified in the state. Yesterday he spotted 2 Peregrine Falcons over the Rainbow Bridge in Niagara Falls. (I saw the same birds. I thought “eagle”, no, “hawk”, no, oh well “unidentifiable”. Kirk has now cleared up that question of mine.)

I took a picture of Eberhard and Anja (Germany) at the SAG stop enjoying the cookies sent to us by my sister, Ann. Those same cookies helped me get my hotel room in Niagara Falls made ready earlier than normal. I offered a the housekeeping manager a cookie during the wait for the room –she promptly gave instructions to get my room ready immediately. Keep them coming, Ann.

The heat and humidity were a bit draining during today’s ride. We kept hydrated, and requested an additional SAG stop be set up today by ABB. They complied . It was a hot and sweaty biking day in the Empire State.

I photographed the map that appears in our hotel lobby daily. It shows the black line of our completed mileage. We have watched the line move East for 44 days now: through the mountains in the West, the high plains, the farmlands of the Midwest, a section of Canada and right into central NY State. I look at the line everyday–and continue to be amazed at what we have accomplished. It is truly an unbelievable experience.

Bill

Day 43 Niagara Falls

2006-07-31T13:03:00.000-07:00

REST DAY

Last night I ventured out of the hotel at 10:00 pm to see the light show at the falls–and the special Sunday night fireworks display over Niagara Falls and the Niagara River Gorge below.

We stood in the park which is level with the rapids at the top of the American Falls. The show was amazing! The falls were bathed in powerful lights of red, blue and yellow as the fireworks exploded above. Quite a sight.

This morning (on our 5th and last rest day) I joined 15 fellow cyclists for a 4 ½ hour tour of all the sights on both sides of the border. We had our own mini-bus and knowledgeable and pleasant guide to explain the area attractions to us.

We first visited the “Cave of the Winds” at the bottom of “ Bridal Veil Falls”, one of the American Falls. The energy of Niagara Falls is immense. We could feel its power–and wind and mist–as we stood at the bottom. We then entered Canada and viewed the whirlpool section of the Niagara River as it turns a corner downstream.
We stood at the top of Horseshoe Falls in the mist and 85 degree sunshine and took many photos, and then crossed back to the US side (the Customs/Immigration folks are very familiar with our biking group by now).

The highlight of the tour was our trip on the famous “Maid of the Mist” boat in the river below the falls. Dressed in our blue plastic (free) raincoats, we cruised right up to the base of the Canadian Falls in extremely turbulent waters. It was a wet and unforgettable experience.

What a great place to spend a Rest Day !

Bill

Day 42 Brantford to Niagara Falls, NY USA

2006-07-30T18:21:00.000-07:00

BACK IN THE USA!

We experienced a great day of cycling–and an interesting one as well. The Sunday morning rides are always my favorite time on the bike. It is prime cycling time, as people are at home, not in their cars on the road. Dan, Keith, and I felt almost alone in the Canadian countryside this morning–even the dogs didn’t bother us today. It must be a rest day for all species.

Our ride was 72 miles to Niagara Falls, NY. Initially, we rode through farm land with some large fields of sod farms. We saw cherries being mechanically picked in a roadside orchard. Ginseng is also a crop grown locally, which many of us saw growing in its early stages for the first time. The towns of Bismark, Pelham, and Vinelandtown were passed by on our way to Niagara Falls. The roads got much busier as we got closer ....and then we saw the Canadian Falls, or Horseshoe Falls, with its plumes of mist shooting high in the air. Amazing sight!

We rode our bikes right into the center of all the pedestrian and motor traffic—right to the walkway overlooking the falls. Hundreds, no thousands, of tourists from everywhere in the world–it appeared–were in town with their families.

Niagara Falls, Canada was most impressive; the skyscraper luxury hotels, the fashionable restaurants, the lush green lawns and planted flowers were all in evidence on the Canadian side. We stopped to walk a bit and take some pictures.

We then crossed Rainbow Bridge on our bikes–and mixed in with the slow moving car traffic as we approached the US Customs and Immigration. For us the questions were mostly about our bikes and equipment. We were welcomed back to the USA.

The American side is quite different; fun parks, and tourist shops, fast food from India and China etc. abound. Niagara Falls, NY is definitely “the poor cousin” to its Canadian neighbor. But, hey, it’s just a short walk across the bridge! And we have time to explore both.

We have a rest day tomorrow before beginning the final week of our 50 day trek.

Bill

Day 41 London to Brantford,ONT, Canada

2006-07-29T13:44:00.000-07:00

i tunes to BRANTFORD

Our short, sweet, enjoyable Saturday morning ride to Brantford, Ontario was filled with the sound of music! I was surprised to hear some “good ol’ rock and roll music” as we were leaving London this morning at 7:30 am. It was a beautiful, yet hazy, day for the 64 mile stretch to Brantford, home town of hockey great Wayne Gretsky. The music was coming from Dan’s bike. He had rigged up his i pod to a small speaker set he had borrowed from Annie, which was strapped to the cross bar. I could hear his good selection of tunes most of the way today.

Early on in the route, I rode with Chuck (OH/FL), a Cincinnati/Sarasota resident whom I knew was a retired Air Force Colonel–and a strong cyclist.(see photo of Chuck in the morning haze). He flew A-4 fighter jets out of Da Nang while Kent (VA) was piloting a modified A-4 off aircraft carriers at the same time during the Vietnam War. During my conversation with Chuck, the “Navy boys”, Dave and Jim, classmates at Annapolis, came roaring by in a 2 man pace line. They have improved their speed and riding skills tremendously since Astoria, Oregon. It is great to see them riding so well.

In the town of Springford at a town park and ball field we had our mandatory SAG stop. A softball tournament was about to start, and our pavilion was being readied for it’s conversion to the “beer tent”. A sign said; “7 beers for $20". It was tempting to several of us, but it was only 9:30 am–and the concession stand didn’t open until 11:00. So we rode on.

We biked through the small Ontario towns of Otterville, and Wilsonville to Mt Pleasant and finally to Brantford (pop 90,000–and apparently declining). It was a rather unimpressive part of town that was our entry through the streets of Brantford. Scoopy’s Ice Cream was our first stop. A good one.

The rural areas on our route today were “lovely”, as one of the UK riders said. Big, prosperous, and tidy farms on great roads (particularly when compared to Michigan). We saw tobacco fields, and strawberry fields enclosed in screening, along with the corn, soybeans, and cows. The small towns were neat and clean and had the look of prosperous middle class communities.. All were quiet on this Saturday morning.
We again put our heads down and rode the last 33 miles “with purpose”. The average speed for the day was 17.3 mph. We were in town before noon—waiting for our rooms to be ready.

We passed the 3000 mile mark of our journey on today’s ride. Tomorrow we ride to Niagara Falls, NY for a rest day on Monday. And then it’s only 7 days to Portsmouth...and our celebration of a great adventure. WOW!

Bill
ps Did you know that Canada is so much associated with the game of ice hockey —that on the new $5 bill a picture appears of youths playing hockey?

Day 40 Port Huron, MI to London, Ontario, Canada

2006-07-28T14:11:00.000-07:00

“ OH CANADA, GLORIOUS AND FREE ”

Those are the words in Canada’s National Anthem which the group of riders known as “the Final Four” (Annie, Lois, Abe, and Stew) were prepared to sing to the Customs and Immigration officials at the border in the event it became necessary for entry. It was not required (naturally), but a few bars were sung anyway. Actually, the preparation and procedure itself went off very smoothly. We assembled at 7:15 am in front of our hotel in Port Huron with passports tucked away in our ABB jerseys and cameras at the ready. We were to ride closely behind the van–all 54 of us–, and we were to be followed by our other van and luggage truck.

The bridge authorities were ready for us. They held all truck traffic going into Canada until we had cleared the bridge, which rises high over the St Clair River. The Canadian officials at the far end of the bridge were cordial and efficient. Only the 5 Europeans were asked for their passports–in order to stamp them. The Americans passed right through after disclaiming having a weapon or contraband.

We were in Sarnia, Ontario, Canada where we immediately found better roads, but the same crops as we found in Wisconsin and Michigan. Our welcome to Canada was complete with the arrival of warm sunshine and a TAILWIND! The unattainable tailwind we begged for in South Dakota and Wyoming we found in Canada on this day. This tailwind pushed us faster than expected down the country roads. What a pleasure to have a wind at our backs.

The route from Port Huron to London, Ontario was a flat 82 mile ride. From the SAG stop in the town of Watford at the 34 mile mark, we shot right into our destination city of London, Ontario. It was a 48 mile non-stop push at speeds in excess of 18-20 mph. We were at the hotel before 1:00 pm. Actually, Dan and I first stopped for a lunch of fish and chips at a restaurant next door to our hotel. There we found “the Wolfpack”, the group of mainly European cyclists who ride in a pace line together each day, and are always first in. Peter (UK) offered us a celebratory Labatts Blue beer. “Welcome to the Commonwealth”, he said. “Cheers, Peter” was our thirsty response.

It was a great biking day: the excitement of crossing into and biking in another country, the weather and tailwind, the challenging speedy finish all made for a great bit of cycling.

I was told at the “all you can eat” buffet restaurant last evening that a gentleman was there looking for me. To my amazement, an old friend from the paper industry, who resides in Port Huron and was the president of the paper company here, heard of my bike trip and knew I was in town. He invited me to his beautiful home right on Lake Huron for a beer and some good catch-up exchange of news on people we both know. His wife and Betty had been good friends and shopping and touring buddies at the paper industry conventions in years past. Small world!

I ordered another t-shirt. I know I have too many, but this one is an original and is offered by a fellow cyclist on the tour. It describes our unalterable itinerary for the 50 days of our cross country bike ride. It says: “EAT, SLEEP, PEDAL.....REPEAT”. Perfect.

Cruisin’ in Canada,
Bill

Day 39 Birch Run to Port Huron,MI

2006-07-27T13:59:00.000-07:00

MICHIGAN FAREWELL !

I turned on the television this morning at 5: 30 am to see the local news broadcast of a story on our cycling trip. A reporter had interviewed a couple of our guys, including Stephen (NJ), a great kid biking across America with his dad. He is 15 years old and had some choice quotes for the reporter. His best was: “I HATED South Dakota (due to the heat and wind, of course), but also, “ I thought Michigan was supposed to be beautiful”. The producer at Channel 25 decided against “airing” those comments, and went with some less inflammatory remarks. He is quite a young man!

The route today was a flat 88 miles to Port Huron, MI (pop 32,000), located on Lake Huron at the site of the Blue Water Bridge to Canada, and “Boyhood home of Thomas Edison”. The bridge, a massive structure, crosses over the St Clair River which flows out of Lake Huron. We will make the crossing and GO INTERNATIONAL tomorrow. We are all excited about biking in Canada! New adventure.

It was a bit foggy this morning, but we were pleased to see the sun shining early. The morning fog produced a haze over the farm fields in the distance. It did cloud up later in the morning, however.

“New guy” John passed us –as he does every day–in a flash. He is an incredible cyclist with a steady, steady 105 to 110 pedaling cadence ALL DAY LONG. That is very fast spinning, his legs are like pistons going up and down. He is definitely in a different league.

Our first SAG at the 26 mile mark was at Artesian Well (photo). We then biked on to Brown City and into the town of Yale for a SAG at Andrae Park, named for the family of one of our riders, Nancy (FL).

On the outskirts of Port Huron–passing beautiful houses on the lake– we caught a glimpse of Lake Huron at Lakeport State Park Beach. It was a good day for a swim-hot and humid–, but we cycled on to get lunch.

We again moved right along today, averaging 16.3 mph. We were on the road for 5 hours and 28 minutes, getting into town about 12:30 pm. Keith, Dan and I rode together most of the day–and finished together.

Floyd Landis: (if proven) SHAME.... for what you have done to the sport of cycling! WHY?

Bill

ps ** See photo of road conditions–and call your county supervisor if you live in Michigan.

** Naples Cyclery, my bike shop, would be proud of my biking clothes today. It is their team colors.

Day 38 Mt Pleasant to Birch Run, MI

2006-07-26T13:15:00.000-07:00

ATTENTION SHOPPERS !

We wanted to stay ahead of the rain today–and we did, but not by much...and it wasn’t easy! We completed the 75 mile route today in 4 ½ hours, in spite of some segments with 10-15 mph headwinds and some of the worst road conditions in America. Our average speed for the day was over 16 mph. It was as tough a workout for me as yesterday’s 115 mile ride. I probably pushed a bit too much to stay with stronger cyclists—but I do enjoy having some free time this afternoon. I even had a chance to put new clip-on cleat sets in my biking shoes.

It was a gray, overcast day with scattered showers. Some of the riders are still out and it has now begun to rain here in Birch Run, MI.

I am told that this city of only 4,000 residents hosts “millions” of shopping tourists each year at the more than 150 brand name outlet stores located in a HUGE complex as you enter town. In fact “the Birch Run exit off I-75 is the second busiest exit on that highway” that runs all the way to Naples and Miami. “Only the exit to Disney World is busier”. However, I have NO intention of visiting the outlets. During this trip the only store in which I have any interest is a bike shop. All of us stop at every bike shop we come across. You always need something in a bike shop.

What has happened to Michigan roads? Granted, we are on low priority back country roads with little traffic , and granted, Michigan does have long and tough winters, but holy cow, what a state of road disrepair we have encountered.

The route today took us through the towns of Sheppard and then into Alma and past the college campus there. That was the last town we saw until we entered Birch Run. Farmland was our environment today. Kent (VA) identified the crops we passed en route. His list (since I am unable to question his identification of these grains and vegetables) includes: corn, soybeans, green beans, lima beans, sorghum, beets, asparagus, pumpkins, sunflowers, wheat and....hay----all on Michigan farms.

Biking the farmland of Michigan,
Bill

Day 37 Ludington to Mt. Pleasant, MI

2006-07-25T18:58:00.000-07:00

SINGING IN THE RAIN

(NOTE; See Day 36 also posted today)

About 3 miles outside of Ludington this morning we stopped to put on our rain gear. It was a high mileage day (115 miles) to Mr Pleasant, MI and the forecast called for thunderstorms during the morning hours. What it didn’t say was ALL MORNING. It was 75 miles and 5 hours later that I took off the rain jacket. Incidently, my rubberized rain jacket is the same type of cover that wrestlers wear when trying to lose weight before the weigh- in for a match. Guaranteed to drop pounds through “sweat equity”. I was as wet on the inside as on the outside. Nevertheless, I could not get certain “rain”songs out of my head, so I rode for miles singing to myself.

Today’s ride was our last “century” ride of the trip. We only have 12 cycling days left–none over 90 miles. But we certainly have some great cycling ahead of us. Michigan, despite the weather, has been beautiful. We all look forward to our time in Canada, and then NY State–and family visits–, followed be the Green Mountains of Vermont, and then New Hampshire and the beach. These are exciting days! The large cycling group has really come together well. We have all developed new friendships and riding partners.

I had dinner and a couple of drafts with Eberhard and Anja this evening. They own a bicycle touring company that offers cycling tours of Germany and Majorca. I’ve been thinking.....next summer maybe Munich to Hamburg or possibly the Belgian border to the Polish border; Germany South to North or West to East. I’d love to do either one!

The rain today may have slowed us down a bit, but we made very good time over the 115 mile course (avg 15.8 mph). The final 25 miles was again with “gusto”. We hammered home. I rode with Dan, Kent and Ilkka.

Dan’s quote today, as we headed into Mt Pleasant was: “I never like to see the word “Mount” in our destination city. Inevitably, it involves a climb”.

When riding with Kent, a recently retired pilot for American Airlines, I am reminded of his quote on opening day when asked WHY he was making the cross country trek, He said, “For 30 years I have seen the world go by at 500 mph. Now, I want to see America at 15 mph” Well said.

Bill

Day 36 Manitowoc to Ludington,MI

2006-07-25T13:37:00.000-07:00

REST DAY?

MICHIGAN AHOY!

The booming horn on the SS Badger sounded at 1:15 pm as we slipped out of the harbor in Manitowoc, WI. The large 612 passenger ferry (they called it a CRUISE ship!) was underway across Lake Michigan to the town of Ludington, MI, a voyage of 60 miles over the course of 4 hours. This was our REST DAY.

It was amusing to watch the 50-plus cyclists– in civilian clothes– occupy the time aboard ship. Some lounged in the sun on the top deck, some below amidst a bingo game. Some read a book in the “quiet room”, and some –like me– did all of the above. It was a pleasant, though rolling ride AT SEA.

On arrival, we walked our bikes off the ship, changed our watches to EDT, took photos at the “Welcome to Michigan”sign , and hurried to dinner in town.

Kevin, a reporter for The Herald Times Reporter newspaper in Manitowoc, had called earlier in the morning for an interview. We spoke on the phone and he came to the port for a photo and further questions. A nice gentleman–in a very friendly town.

Rested for tomorrow’s 115 mile cycling day,
Bill

Day 35 Fond du Lac to Manitowoc, WI

2006-07-23T13:11:00.000-07:00

THE SHORE OF LAKE MICHIGAN

It was a beautiful Sunday morning in Southeastern Wisconsin. There were only a few people around as we departed Fond du Lac for Manitowoc, WI, located on the shore of Lake Michigan. It was a short 60 mile ride through the cornfields on untraveled county roads. There were no trucks to be seen, and only the occasional passing car. We were all dressed in our red, white, and blue America by Bicycle jerseys–as we are asked to do on days going into a rest day town.

We were almost alone on the roads, just 54 cyclists in the quiet of the morning’s rising sun. We were in no hurry today.

I began to feel a little guilty about missing church on this Sunday morning. I was nudged by the town signs as we entered St Peter, Calvary, and Marytown, WI with its grand Catholic church perched on the hilltop.

A group of 3 bikes passed us on a downhill–it depicted the variety of two-wheeled vehicles represented on this tour. First was the tandem with Steve and Barb (ME) in command, next was Jon (VT) on his conventional road bike, and finally Larry (MA) on his lay-back recumbent. All were cruising along comfortably and enjoying the ride.

I rode mostly with Nancy today, a fellow Floridian and Team RTC member. We entered the town of Kiel, where none of the 3400 inhabitants was anywhere to be seen. We were all alone until the SAG stop at the far end of town. The rolling hills kept us active along with the “DO NOT MISS” county road turnoffs on our route sheets. At the 47 mile mark we caught our first glimpse of Lake Michigan. What a sight!

Arriving at the busy lunch spot in Manitowoc, there were the usual questions by the folks there and subsequent amazement at the time, logistics and distance of our cross country bicycle trip. There seemed to be a great deal of interest in cycling on this final day of the Tour de France–and I noted some degree of pride that Floyd Landis , an American, had won.

We will board the ferry at noon tomorrow to travel across Lake Michigan–on our rest day.

Floating across America,

Bill

Day 34 Wisconsin Dells to Fond du Lac, WI

2006-07-22T13:59:00.000-07:00

‘FOLLOW THE SIGNS TO THE PIGGLY WIGGLY’

We had perfect cycling weather today for our 85 mile ride to Fond du Lac, WI. A little breeze kept the 80 degree day very comfortable under partially cloudy conditions. We rode on county roads with initials -not numbers- like CR “N”, and CR “J”. The pleasant Wisconsin countryside has beautiful ridges in the distance and you can see the rolling hills and corn fields for miles on end. We saw mostly agricultural farms with soybeans and corn as the main crops. There were surprisingly few dairy farms on this route.

At the 32 mile mark we cycled past Buffalo Lake outside the town of Montello, a town that appears to have frozen in time 50 years ago. At the SAG we were promised a “beautiful waterfall over granite rock, with swans swimming in the lake below”. It was scenic and relaxing stop.

Keith (IA) and I then pace lined for 15 miles to Princeton, where we ran into road construction and confusing “detour” signs, and mixed signals from the traffic flow. Lisa, asked a native if we could get through the construction on bikes, or if there was a better way out of town? His response was to “follow the signs for the Piggly Wiggly”. This local chain store had posted signs for directions to the store to help Princetonians find it in the confusion of road construction. Follow the signs we did–right to where we wanted to be. Sometimes it just works out right!

After the second SAG in Ripon, WI, “Birthplace of the Republican Party”, according to the sign, Dan and I hammered for 22 miles into Fond du Lac. When Dan can “smell the barn” at the end of the ride–say the last 20-25 miles–he really lets it go. I was hanging on at 19-20 mph right up to the ice cream stop on the outskirts of town.

Our hotel is right downtown–a real city hotel in this attractive town of 42,000 people. The city is located at “the bottom of the Lake” (Winnebago), hence the name of the city in French: Fond du Lac. It has been recognized as the second safest metro area in the US, and is home to the state’s first cheese factory.

We have a group of riders who call themselves; “The Final Four”, as in the last 4 people to finish the ride each day. Annie, Lois, Stew and Abe have more fun with their relaxed style of bike riding–and have been seen just lying in the grass at the roadside looking up at the clouds. They have t-shirts with Final Four on the back. Their goal yesterday was to make it to Route Rap, which is held daily at 5:00 pm. They made it–and received applause from the cycling group. We do have some laughs.

Today Ilkka received word of the birth of a grandchild. Chalk marked words of congratulation were written along our route today. Yesterday, Lois’s sisters and their children placed humorous signs near Wisconsin Dells welcoming her arrival at the hotel.

I’m off to “ mechanic hour” to have a new chain put on my TREK. We have 2550 miles behind us, so it is time for a new one.

Pedaling in Packerland,

Bill

photos: (LtoR) Falls in Montello, Wisconsin faramland, Downtown Fond du Lac.

Day 33 La Crosse to Wisconsin Dells, WI

2006-07-21T19:22:00.000-07:00

FLASHLIGHTS IN THE TUNNEL

The first thing we all noticed at route rap yesterday were the3 hugh peaks on the topography chart given to us along with the day’s route directions. Lil (France) said, “This looks like the Pyranees”. The alarm was quieted when we were told: “Don’t worry , we don’t have to climb them. We will go through TUNNELS”.

With flashlights in hand we made our way through these dark, wet tunnels through the mountains, while walking our bikes. The first was 3/4 of a mile long and cut through solid rock. A new adventure on our bicycle trip.

The highlight of today’s 94 mile ride was our 32 mile segment on the Elroy-Sparta Trail–the first Rails to Trails bicycle and walking pathway built in the US, we were told. It was on this trail that we experienced the tunnels, as well as great country riding on a hardpack surface. As with yesterday’s trail in Minnesota, we rode through woods and rural countryside, but today on Elroy-Sparta we saw many families and youth groups out for a morning bike ride. The trail from Sparta passed through the towns of Norwalk, Wilton, and Kendall to Elroy, MN, all with cafes, facilities, and parking for trail users. We all enjoyed the Rails to Trails experience and the change of pace to our daily rides.

We arrived in Wisconsin Dells; “the Midwest’s #1 destination” in time for a late lunch. The busy tourist town is located on the spot where the Wisconsin River has cut through miles of sandstone to form the Wisconsin Dells scenic riverway. Boat rides through the “Dells” are available–along with every type of tourist theme park, waterslide, miniature golf etc.

Jessica, a reporter for the Wisconsin Dells “Event” newspaper, came to the Super 8 motel with her young children to interview me this afternoon. The razzing continues from the cycling gang about all the publicity for RTC–except those whose pictures also appear on the TV spots.

Bill

Day 32 Rochester to La Crosse, WI

2006-07-20T19:30:00.000-07:00

ROOT RIVER TRAIL

At precisely 8:18 am my cell phone rang–as planned. Dan, Keith and I had stopped to take the call along the route just outside of Chatfield, MN. It was the first media event of the day; an on the air interview with Mike Hayes, "Talk radio WIZM", La CrosseWI. We talked about the bike trip, the group of riders, and Rails to Trails Conservancy. WXOW TV and WKBT TV also sent reporters and cameramen for interviews and bike riding footage today for the local La Crosse news shows at 6:00 and 10:00pm. One interview took place in front of the large "Welcome to Wisconsin" sign just before crossing the Mississippi River.
The timing was perfect, as we had a wonderful ride today on Minnesota’s Root River Trail, a RTC bike path from Rushford to Houston, MN. It was a 12 mile interval in our 90 mile route from Rochester to La Crosse, WI. The trail weaved through the shade in the woods , along the Root River, past cornfields, through wildflowers, and over railroad trestles. It was great fun and an enjoyable change of pace from our road riding. We met a cyclist from New Zealand who took photo of (left to right) Susan (staff), Ted (NJ), Dan and me.
The weather --in contrast to yesterday’s severe storms–was a beautiful summer day in the 80's. It was an enjoyable day on the bike!
We came upon a turkey farm along the route. Thousands and thousands of turkeys are getting ready here to feed America on Thanksgiving Day.
We also had the unique assistance of the MN State Police today. As we came down the road we saw 2 black dogs in wait. There was no doubt as to their intent–our ankles! At that moment, coming from the other direction, was the police patrol car. As we both got nearer to the dogs, the trooper put on his siren, stopped, and shielded us from the now confused dogs, who took out their frustration by barking at the trooper. He stayed on to protect riders following us. A real public servant!
The Minnesota countryside –in good weather– has been refreshingly green and scenic. The rolling hills make for good cycling fun, the big expansive farms are attractive, and the huge healthy tracts of corn and soybeans are a marvel of modern agriculture. We have moved quickly across the state with long mileage days.
Tomorrow we ride on another RTC pathway: Wisconsin’s famous Elroy Sparta Trail.
Bill

Day 31 Mankato to Rochester, MN

2006-07-19T19:39:00.000-07:00

BARN STORMING

In long distance cycling you never know what you will find up ahead on the route. Or what will find you. Severe weather FOUND US in spades today. I had never been caught out in a thunderstorm of this intensity before. We were right smack in the middle of it. There were heavy winds, whipping rain with pea-sized hail, lightning and thunder and some of the darkest sky imaginable. It turned our 100 mile “century” day upside down.

We left Mankato at 6:20 am and arrived 10 ½ hours later in Rochester, MN. The winds followed us right up to the door of the Holiday Inn. They were relentless all day long. We rode for 50 miles in various stages of rainfall, soaked to the gills.

Hoping to avoid the forecast “scattered” thunderstorms, we rode the first 40 miles under heavy gray skies with a quick and steady pace for a century ride. Just outside of Mankato we had to walk our bikes through sand and gravel over a closed road under construction. Others, having left later were detoured around it.

The unusual events of the day began for Dan and me at the 40 mile mark–somewhere outside the town of Waseca, MN, in farm country. We saw the sky color turn to green before the cloud appeared pitch black. I said, “I have to take a picture of that cloud”. It had appeared quickly and looked violent. Before I could put the camera away (in a plastic bag), the severe storm hit us–squarely! There was no cover and lightning flashes were numerous. A farm lady in a pick-up stopped and told us we could find shelter in her barn 1/4 mile down the road. We found the barn, now occupied by 7 of our cycling friends, and waited out the first thunderstorm. Larry (MA) had his brother on the cell phone giving us updates from the Weather Channel radar. When it looked clear to go we departed, but the lightning returned us to our second one hour barn visit. This farm couple not only opened the barn, but brought us folding chairs and bottled water, and showed off their pet chinchillas (he sells them), and new litter of puppies. They couldn’t have been nicer.

By 12:30 we still had 50 miles left to complete the ride to Rochester. In the wind and rain Dan and I trudged on. Many chose to ride in in the vans. Who could blame them. It was a miserable and at times dangerous day.

We had to ride right into the downtown area of the city of Rochester, passing the Mayo Clinic in rush hour traffic.

It was not an enjoyable ride –the weather was too extreme–, but I felt great satisfaction in having DONE IT.

Bill

ps The buffalo photo was taken in Reconciliation Park in Mankato. It symbolizes “Peace” between the Indian and white man. Mankato is the site of the execution of 38 Dakota Indians for their role in the uprising of 1862, which launched a series of Indian Wars. It is the largest mass execution in American history.

Day 30 Worthington to Mankato, MN

2006-07-18T15:09:00.000-07:00

FRONT PAGE NEWS?

The razzing began before 6:00am this morning as the Worthington, MN “Daily Globe” newspaper was passed around at breakfast. There-ON THE FRONT PAGE- was a picture of me and my TREK and the headline: “Cyclist stops in town on way to New Hampshire”. The story told the details of our cross country tour, and my efforts to raise funds, awareness, and increase membership in the Rails to Trails Conservancy.

Unfortunately, the kidding continued after one of our gang overheard a group of senior citizen ladies at the McDonalds in Windom, MN ask: “Which one is Bill?”, when some ABB cyclists entered the restaurant. Our first SAG stop happened to be in that McDonalds parking lot–30 miles from Worthington. Apparently the “Daily Globe” is read far and wide, and it is also evident that there is a real lack of serious news in Southwest Minnesota on this day.

Today’s challenge was a 102 mile ride to Mankato,MN. I think many of us worried about today more than we had to. There was concern about the wind after we learned that the gusts were actually 30 mph yesterday, and that it had blown Jim off the road on his recumbent bike. The record heat in the area was also on our minds. But, once underway this morning it was just “forget the worries and DO THE RIDE”. The milder winds were mainly cross winds and the heat was never a factor. It was a beautiful blue sky day in rural Minnesota. We saw enough corn and soybeans in fields today to feed China.

We started and finished our ride on Rt 60 East, a busy divided highway. In between, we enjoyed the peace and scenery in the farm belt on quiet county roads. The town of St James seemed like a comfortable and attractive place to live. At Madelia (“Pride of the Prairie”) we ran into road construction, but detoured ourselves out of town. Dan, Keith and I helped Nancy repair her flat tire along the route–after all she is a Team RTC member, and probably needed a little help.

Dan and I biked into the town of Lake Crystal hoping to find some lunch. We did. We also found Dave (CA) and Jim (Hawaii and CO), our biking friends who were classmates at Annapolis and are doing this trip together. Good guys.

Another 100 mile day is tap for tomorrow, but I am not going to WORRY about it. I have no control over the weather.

Bill

Day 29 Sioux Falls, SD to Worthington, MN

2006-07-17T14:58:00.000-07:00

WINDSURFING IN WORTHINGTON, MN

Monday morning. Back to work. With the rest day behind us, we had a 74 mile bike ride ahead of us to Worthington, MN (“You’ll Come To Love Us” is their slogan). Worthington is famous for WINDSURFING (“Put some speed in your sails”, they say) and holds an annual regatta on its Lake Okabena, which we could see as we came into town early this afternoon. It was no surprise to any of us who had cycled today’s route that WIND would put Worthington on the map. We were in 20-25 mph winds most of the morning. The mainly cross winds rattled the cornfields. It forced us at times to lean into it on the bikes, and it whistled through our helmets and the soybean fields.

We began our ride out of Sioux Falls, SD at 6:30 am and rode casually for 10 miles through beautiful Falls Park along the Big Sioux River on a curving bike path. Keith (IA) mentioned that it was “the prettiest real estate since Mt Rushmore” with woods and playgrounds and acres of trimmed green grass. It was that.

It was quite a transition from the city’s bike path to Rt 140 East and big farm country. We cyclists say that on a bike you not only SEE America, but you can also SMELL it. Today’s passing of pig farms was a good (or bad!) example. Our views were exclusively corn and soybean fields bent in the constant wind. On two occasions we saw wind mills in the fields generating electricity.

We passed through the town of Brandon before crossing the State line into Minnesota. We had our only SAG stop in the lovely town of Laverne, and rode through Magnolia, Adrian and finally into the Dairy Queen in our destination city of Worthington. A good ride day.....maybe a little windy!

The media parade for Rails to Trails has heated up considerably. My appearance yesterday on KSFY (ABC TV affiliate in Sioux Falls) was the first with a film clip on the 5:30 and 10:00 pm local newscasts. It showed the interview and my story of the cross country bike ride dedicated to support Rails to Trails Conservancy. The clip must have been well edited, as I believe it came off quite well–on and off the bike–and wearing my RTC jersey.

Today I was interviewed and photographed (in the jersey) for the July 18 edition of the Worthington Daily Globe newspaper (www.dglobe.com). WIZM radio in La Crosse, WI has asked me to be interviewed “on the air” on Thursday morning for the “ride to work “ crowd at 8:20 am while enroute on the bike. I accepted. I hope it is positive publicity for RTC.

Windsurfing through Minnesota,

Bill
(Photo shows roadside grass blowing in the wind)

Day 28 Sioux Falls, SD

2006-07-16T09:45:00.000-07:00

REST DAY

Activities:
Breakfast with the gang, a brief look at the Tour de France, thoroughly clean and lube the bike, write and post my blog the the hotel with wireless internet next door, wash biking clothes in the bathtub (no laundry in this "luxurious" Super 8 ---and I'm not walking a mile to a laundramat), shopping center visit for necessities, catch up on phone calls--(now that I am connected to the Cingular world with a few bars), meet with local ABC-TV reporter at the hotel--set up by Rails to Trails, .........etc.

Bill

Day 27 Mitchell to Sioux Falls, SD

2006-07-16T09:07:00.000-07:00

BENT PRAIRIE GRASS

South Dakota is the only place on earth where you can get heat rash and a wind burn in the same day. Both were available today for the cyclists on the Across America-North ride.

But first the RODEO! Twelve cyclists in cowboy hats, rodeo caps, and rodeo t-shirts were on hand for “one of the top 5 rodeos in the country” held last night in the outdoor arena outside Mitchell, SD. A patriotic crowd of 2400 was on hand for the singing of God Bless America and the National Anthem before the festivities and competition began. The “fragrance” in the air from the horses and cattle was not subdued by the delicious smells from the barbeque tent. We were excited to be a part of this “Badlands culture” and enjoyed the nights events along with the local farming and ranching crowd. Bucking broncos, steer wrestling, and the clowns were our favorites. It was an event we will remember fondly.

The ride to Sioux Falls, SD (pop 123,000) was 75 miles “in the elements”; that is heat and winds. We received a call on our cell phones at the rodeo from ABB that luggage load and breakfast in the morning would be earlier than planned, as the weather report (accurate) was for 20-30 mph winds and 100+ temperatures. The winds were from the SSW, so fortunately we experienced mainly heavy cross winds, but for several stretches of the route we plowed directly into them-slowing the pace and increasing the work load.

However, we had only 75 miles to the oasis of a REST DAY. The mood was upbeat, the route was calm country roads through large farm tracts of mainly corn. Not a person in sight, except the occasional passing pick up truck.

We traveled Rt 262 and SR42 East through the small farming communities of Alexandria, Emery, and Canistota where a town parade with floats was being organized. In addition to the regular stops for SAGs, many of us are now more religious about stopping at a convenience store for cold Gatorade and something to eat on these long days in the heat.

We lose 9 riders here in Sioux Falls. They have completed their course as planned and depart after 2000 miles. We will miss them all: the Swiss father (Franz the Dr) and his athletic son, Ben, who is off to college, Mike (CA), covered in zinc oxide and wearing a long sleeved shirt on his recumbent bike, and especially my 4 cross country mates from the 2004 ride. My good friends Tim and Kathryn (ME), Dale (AZ), and Joyce (MA) leave us here. They are all very special people to me, members of Team Rails to Trails, and more than riding buddies. God Bless!

Bill

Day 26 Chamberlain to Mitchell,SD

2006-07-14T14:38:00.000-07:00

A PLEASANT RIDE IN CORN COUNTRY

It is 100 degrees in this part of South Dakota this afternoon and our cycling group couldn’t care less. We are in Mitchell, SD and have completed the 75 mile ride from Chamberlain. By noon our bikes were in the barn -so to speak-, and we were enjoying the sights of this farming town.

It was a most pleasant Friday morning ride on very quiet farm country roads which paralleled I-90 on a straight shot into Mitchell, SD. The weather was perfect; sunny, no wind, and not yet reaching the high temperatures of the afternoon. I again felt good on the bike; healthy, hydrated, and enjoying the ride, fully recuperated from the previous two days. We really had fun today.

Annie (England) and Lois (CO) caught up with us as we were riding 2 abreast on a country road and passing corn field after corn field. They began singing: “This land is your land, This land is my land....”, it was an amusing yet appropriate reaction to our surroundings.

We stopped for Gatorade and ice cream at a convenience store at the 4 corners in Mt Vernon at the 58 mile mark. A few of the local farmers started a friendly conversation about our bicycle trip and local lore. They strongly advised us to attend tonight’s RODEO in Mitchell for a great cowboy show. Some of us plan to do just that. Photos tomorrow.

Mitchell, SD is famous for the unbelievable CORN PALACE- “the Boston Garden of the Midwest”, named because numerous basketball games , stage shows, proms and graduations are held in this multi-use facility each year. The one square block building hosts 500,000 tourists (like us) each year–because it is a “building covered with CORN”. Truly. Hugh murals–inside and out–are made entirely of corn. It really is “A- MAIZE- ING!

It is Bastille Day in France. On our bikes we had passed through farm land planted in sun flowers–and made reference to the photos of the Tour de France with the sun flower fields in the background. At lunch in Mitchell we watched today’s Tour and applauded the success of Landis, an American, retaining his yellow jersey, and a member of Discovery Team winning today’s stage race.

It was a beautiful bike ride day...and it’s not over yet.

Bill

Day 25 Pierre to Chamberlain, SD

2006-07-13T18:56:00.000-07:00

HALF WAY –USA
(Note:See day 24 posted today)
I was not up to par today following yesterday’s experience with dehydration . Many riders were in a recovery mode. I had serious doubts as to whether I would be able to ride today, right up until the time to depart. I thought I would try to ride to the first SAG—and then see if I felt well enough to continue. It worked out fine. I felt better as the day went on.

We had crossed the Missouri River in Pierre and are now on Central Time (We lost an hour of sleep!)

The ride today was 84 miles to the river city of Chamberlain, SD, situated high on a bluff above the Missouri River.

We rode out of Pierre on a bike path while getting showered by the park’s sprinklers. The route was along the River, which is dammed up and forms “the world’s largest reservoir”here. We followed the River all day. Our CCC group planned to take it easy in the expected 100 plus degree heat today, and we did. It was overcast part of the day– a break for us looking to avoid the sun. We biked along with another touring group that is following the Lewis and Clark Trail.

The first SAG was at the HALF WAY POINT ACROSS AMERICA–1800 miles in 25 days.

We had a few climbs today and it was again very HOT, but the winds were milder and even cooling at times. We paced ourselves–and drank and drank.

We had some beautiful views of the Missouri River from high on the bluffs. The water appeared clear and the river was free of barge traffic. It is as impressive as the Mississippi, and as big in several places.

I am feeling much better after today’s ride.
And I wanted to show you my picture of George at Mt Rushmore

Bill

Day 24 Wall to Pierre, SD

2006-07-13T17:41:00.000-07:00

DISAPPOINTMENT IN PIERRE

The events of today’s ride unfolded in ways I had not expected. I did learn from this ride, but I hope that I will never have to repeat the experience. It was the most difficult cycling challenge I have ever faced—without a doubt. It left me physically drained and disappointed.

The route was 117 miles from Wall to Pierre, SD (pronounced PEER) , the State Capital. We rode out of town at 5:30 am into wide open big sky country. There were no services until Pierre; no convenience stores for food or drink. The temperature would be 106 degrees, “the hottest day since 1936" according to the weatherman. We faced unfavorable winds for 70 miles of this route. Winds at a punishing 20 mph with gusts that moved our bikes. The prairie grasses were bent over in the wind. We struggled to get above 10 mph on a regular basis. There is a saying on the prairies: “There is nothing between you and the wind but a barbed wire fence”. That was true today. The winds howled through our helmets. There was not an inch of shade anywhere–we were totally exposed all day long–no clouds, no trees. The heat soaked in. We were caked in salty sweat.

We climbed nearly 4,000 ft over the course of 100 miles on mostly long rolling hills, one after the other. It was a long and physically demanding cycling day.

I rode with Dan, Keith, Joyce and Dale until flat fires and hills separated us. By then Joyce and I were well to the front of the majority of cyclists–stretched out over 30 miles on this 117 mile route. We were ahead of the support vehicles—and the water. We relied on the 3 SAG stops for our only food and water, but they were hours apart. Our water bottles were full and cold when leaving the SAG, but suitable for making tea shortly thereafter. It was so HOT!

We left the last SAG at the 83 mile mark. The wind held us to 10 mph–we had over 3 hours left. The hill climbs continued, the temperature hit 100 degrees, no shade, and finally no food and no water.

At the 100 mile mark I got off the bike. I was nauseous and felt faint, I began to cramp. I sat at he side of the road waiting for water–and resting. I wanted to continue. The van arrived full of cyclists with their bikes on the roof. I thought with water and some rest I could go on. Against the advice of others-- I did. I reached 101.4 miles, 16 miles short of Pierre....and could not go on. I was cramping in both legs–I could not stay on the bike. It was over. I stopped to wait to be picked up. I could not finish the course...I was completely drained, physically unable to continue, and terribly disappointed.

There were more than half of our cycling group that did not complete the course. A sheriff’s car picked up2 overheated bikers, one was taken to the hospital at 120 mph for an ice bath and IV fluids. Another rider went to the emergency room later in the evening for an IV. Two had crashed earlier in the day. We were a beaten crew. I have never felt worse after cycling or any athletic endeavor. I was totally dehydrated and drained of all energy.

Some cyclists made it. I congratulate them. A few were out on the road for 13 hours in that heat and wind and hilly terrain. One cyclist hitch-hiked and came into town in a pick up truck.

I’ll chalk this one up to experience: Keep hydrated, keep eating, and stay within range of the support vans.

Tomorrow will be a better day,

Bill

Day 23 Rapid City to Wall, SD

2006-07-11T19:49:00.000-07:00

REUNION RIDE
Note: See Day 22 posted today

We rode out of Rapid City through 5 miles of city and suburban streets on a sunny, warm morning. We had every expectation of a leisurely 57 mile essentially flat ride to Wall, SD. We planned to be finished early and relax for the 117 mile marathon to Pierre tomorrow. Things don’t always work out as expected!

Steve (CO), Joyce’s brother, who rode the Cross Country Challenge in 2004 with Dan, Tim and Kathryn, Joyce, Dale and me, was visiting and had his bike. We had dinner and planned to ride together to Wall. It began on a happy note, but circumstances turned against us. The bridge was out on our scheduled route , so we were diverted to I-90 ...AN INTERSTATE ...for an extra 20 miles UGH! , narrow bike lane, debris, rumble strips, etc.

We did get off and have some great rolling hills in the unpopulated South Dakota prairie lands. We could see the peaks of the Badlands way off in the distant South. Then we were back on I-90 for the last 20 miles.

In the final 5 miles the trouble began—road repaving– with new hot tar and stones. Yes- we rode through it until we could go no further. Our tires were caked with tar, the police were “bonkers” about bikes on what was now a one lane highway. We stopped. The SAG and construction trucks came along to carry us and the bikes over the remaining 3 mile stretch of road work. It was hot. The bikes were a mess. Not a pleasant experience. A stop at the Dairy Queen on the outskirts of Wall helped.

At the motel we all spent a good deal of time cleaning the bikes and tires. I bought a new set of Specialized Armadillo Elites and put them on as I was ready for a necessary change. A little grumbling was heard as you can imagine, but all is well. Chalk it up to “experience’

Wall, SD was so named because it was built on the edge of the northern extension of the “Badlands wall”, and is home to the famous Wall Drugs, which survived the Depression by offering free ice water to thirsty travelers and by building its reputation on friendly service. It is now the main tourist attraction in town.

We’ll be on the road by 5:30am tomorrow to minimize our riding time in 100 degree heat.

Bill 7/11/70

Day 22 Hot Springs to Rapid City, SD

2006-07-11T15:00:00.000-07:00

SCULPTURES IN STONE

Today’s bike ride to Rapid City, SD may be the best example yet of why we are here, why we are determined to ride across America, and why the experience is so unforgettable. The challenge of the terrain with 5455 feet of climbing and 6% and 10% descents was one factor today. Being overwhelmed by the landscapes and landmarks of this country was another. Sharing these experiences with friends-new and old- is so satisfying and memorable.

The weather was overcast with some sprinkles on occasion, but we didn’t have the debilitating heat often encountered in South Dakota this time of year. We will take the rain and clouds.

This was the day in the Black Hills with visits to the Crazy Horse Memorial and Mt Rushmore. A day we looked forward to... and were not disappointed.

Eight miles out of Hot Springs we encountered Wind Cave National Park and saw a sign “Warning! Large Wildlife On The Road”, followed by one that said: “Buffalo Are Dangerous–Do Not Approach!” I did not see any buffalo today (some did)—only scores of prairie dogs standing at their mounded homes. I enjoyed the scenery and the ride through rolling hills in open prairie land with the Black Hills all around us.

We entered the Black Hills National Forest. One can see how the Black Hills region got its name. The heavy coverage of dark green coniferous trees that cover these hills/mountains give it that appearance from a distance.

Passing through the town of Custer, we made a turn to see the “World’s Largest Mountain Carving”, now in progress: the colossal Memorial to Crazy Horse. It honors the North American Indian of all tribes , but is a sculpture in stone of the Lakota warrior Chief who defeated Custer at Little Big Horn. It is a “”monumental” undertaking in size and scope. It is a wonder to see and visit.

We then went through the most incredible big boulder rock canyons as we approached Mt Rushmore. At one point we stopped and looked behind us to see the head of George Washington carved in the mountain –a side view of the Memorial.

The ABBer’s in bicycle gear drew much attention in the crowd of hundreds as we posed in front of “The Four Presidents”. What a monument to American heros–and what a stage; the magnificent Black Hills of South Dakota. It is easy to understand why these Hills were a sacred place to the Indians. They are so different from the Cascades and Tetons, but certainly on and equal plane.

A 10% fast descent took us from Mt Rushmore to the pleasant tourist town of Keystone for lunch at the Trail Driver Café for a Buffalo Burger.

More swift downhills brought us into Rapid City and the completion of our TERRIFIC cycling day.

Bill

Day 21 Lusk to Hot Springs, SD

2006-07-09T16:38:00.000-07:00

GREAT FACES, GREAT PLACES Note: See Day 20 also posted today.
Photo: Ft Casper

There was no rainbow as we left Lusk, WY in the morning rain, just dark skies and scattered showers all day. It rained for the first 30 miles– and the last 10– of today’s 92 mile bike ride to Hot Springs, South Dakota.

I rode most of the day with Keith (Iowa), Dan (CA), and “new guy” Dave from Syracuse, NY , who joined the group in Casper. We kept up a good pace all day hoping to outrun the chasing rains. We did not succeed, but the rain was not a big deal. We could see well and be seen by the limited Sunday traffic, and conditions were not slippery. We simply did the route in rain gear-when needed- and had to clean and lube our bikes well at the finish.

Just outside of Lusk, we got a kick out of a pack of 10 to 12 horses who galloped along beside us before finally pulling ahead. They playfully trotted until restrained by the fence line.

The countryside was a composite of grasslands (Buffalo Gap National Grasslands), mesas and buttes rising from the prairie until we reached the beginning of the Black Hills of South Dakota at the 70 mile mark of today’s ride.

Following the established pattern, we dismounted for photos at the South Dakota line-56 miles into the ride. I love the slogan on the border sign and license plates: Great Faces-Great Places, a reference to Mt Rushmore of course.

After turning onto Rt 18 East at Mule Creek Junction, we had a great descent into the town of Edgemont for our SAG at the 67 mile mark. From there we could see the famous Black Hills of South Dakota, and even see the ascending route ahead. We climbed for 4 miles, then descended at 6% for 2 miles, followed by another 1 mile climb before the final descent into Hot Springs...”Southern Gateway To The Black Hills”. Great day....so we had a little rain.

RECAP OF THE FIRST 21 DAYS:

After 19 days on the bike (and 2 rest days), I thought I’d recap just how far we have come on this ocean to ocean journey:
* We have cycled 1514 miles, averaging 80 miles per day.
* We have climbed over 52,000 feet.
*We have climbed through the mountain passes of the Cascades, the Tetons and have entered the
Black Hills.
* We are in our 4th State
* WE ARE HAVING A GREAT TIME!

Bill

Day 20 Casper to Lusk,WY

2006-07-09T12:39:00.000-07:00

LUCKY IN LUSK

Our ABB gang was treated to the festivities of the Legend of Rawhide Days upon arrival this afternoon in Lusk, WY. We were lucky t be here on this day for the celebration of the town’s major event of the year.

We stood under cover at the Covered Wagon Motel as the parade passed by in a dampening rain. Cowboys, Indians, covered wagons, saloon girls, as well as the local fire trucks spraying the crowd, were all part fo the show.

The rain and wind had held off for our 106 mile bike ride from Casper. We could see scattered rain showers falling in locations near us, but again --for the 20th day–we remained dry.

The day began on “road kill alley” as Keith (Iowa) called it. I counted 18 dead cottontail rabbits in the road in the first 18 miles. Keith said they were “mile markers”. We went through Glenn Rock (Home of the Herders), and then onto I-25 East for 14 miles of today’s ride. We crossed cattle guards (too many), saw numerous windmills, a few oil wells, and many snow barricades placed on the hill sides to limit the drifting of snow in the winter months. We saw the town sign in Lost Springs, WY which said “population 1".

We moved quickly through today’s century ride (averaging 17 mph and in under 6 hours). There was nothing to stop and look at or photograph. We were “between places” in the wild, wild West. We had a rest day behind us and favorable weather, including winds. We made the best of it, and had time to enjoy the town party in Lusk.

We are off to South Dakota tomorrow,

Bill

Day 19 Casper ,WY

2006-07-07T19:41:00.000-07:00

REST DAY IN CASPER

On a walk through downtown Casper today, a friend and I discovered a wonderful Rails to Trails pedestrian pathway. It passed behind the library, a museum, and several adjoining small parks and gardens. It may have been only 5 or 6 blocks long at this point, but what an asset to the vitality of the Casper community.

I am proud to dedicate this Across America-North bicycle adventure to the Rails to Trails Conservancy. See the link to their website for information, membership opportunity, and to support our "Team RTC".

We also visited the National Historic Trail Center, where history is retold of the Oregon, California, Mormon and Pony Express Trails which all came through Casper. Ft Casper was another point of interest in our tour of this city in Central Wyoming.

To view the progress of our cycling group on a map--day by day-- see http://tinyurl.com/qrz9j. (courtesy of Katy)

Bill

Day 18 Riverton to Casper, WY

2006-07-07T07:06:00.000-07:00

THE ENDLESS ROAD

Today, the longest biking day of our cross country journey, began very early. I had eaten breakfast at the motel and my luggage was loaded by 5:00 am. We waited for the sun to come up at 5:45 before we could ride out onto “ the endless highway” to Casper, WY –120 miles away. Today would be my 31st “century” (100 mile) ride, and the second longest ride of my life. No century ride is easy, but this one was not among the toughest despite the distance. The climbs were gradual (2700 feet climbed today) and not late in the ride. The wind was favorable for most of the day, but turned into a heavy, gusting cross wind for the last 20 miles into Casper. These prairie winds have nothing to block or slow them down, so they can be a BIG factor in a day’s ride. We have all heard the “unpleasant “ stories of the South Dakota winds out ahead of us.

Our “spectators” today –though few and far between- were the bored cattle in the dawn’s light near Riverton, followed by the undaunted two-pronged antelope on the open range.

We wanted to get in as many miles as possible early today to avoid the heat, winds, and possible showers of the afternoon. We rolled at a quick pace all day.

The scenery was not spectacular-except in a few spots. It was barren, flat desert land as far as one could see. What was exciting to me was that we were in WYOMING, new territory, new adventure.

We rode through the small town of Shoshone and Marita (pop10) and stopped only for the required SAG’s.

We got more -and less- of what we had hoped for at HELLS HALF ACRE. We did not get a buffalo burger at the small Western café there; it was closed. We DID get an awesome view of the tremendous rock canyon where the Indians would chase buffalo over the cliffs for the food and hides gathered below. It was an amazing photo oasis in this parched and repetitive landscape.

After 8 hours on the road, we approached Casper, and old oil town of 50,000 situated on the Platte River. We experienced the winds, we stopped at the Dairy Queen, we coasted into the hotel—and a much needed REST DAY.

Bill

Day 17 Dubois to Riverton, WY

2006-07-05T14:23:00.000-07:00

HOME ON THE RANGE

( note; July 4 journal and photos were posted late due to inability to access internet)

Dubois, after its boisterous community celebration of the 4th of July with fireworks, square dancing and street singing–and a little beer I suppose–was quiet this morning at 6:30 am. We finished breakfast at the Cowboy Café and headed to Riverton, WY, 80 miles East on another beautiful day for biking.

With our longest mileage day from Riverton to Casper coming up tomorrow–120 MILES-, we were pleased to see that today’s topography chart was basically downhill. We would bike from 6900 feet elevation in Dubois to 5000 feet in Riverton. This was not to be a strenuous day, but rather a scenic and enjoyable cycling day in the open range and wild West country of Central Wyoming.

We crossed the Wind River several times today as we continued the ride down from the mountains of the past 2 days. We stopped to take a photo of a lone antelope grazing in an open field.

We did have some rolling hills from time to time, but mainly an easy descent through red rock canyons initially, and then the endless open range through an Indian Reservation and past ranch land stretching to the horizon.

The only town we saw on the way to Riverton was the town of Kinnear (pop 44), where the large and picturesque Ocean Lake is located. We could see it for several miles.

We dropped into the pleasant town of Riverton and had finished our Mexican lunch (West-Mex it’s called) by noon. It was 87 degrees on our arrival at the Comfort Inn. We watched the World Cup game on TV in the motel lobby (or worked on our blogs) until the rooms were ready.

From what I have seen of Wyoming, I think “the Cowboys” is a very appropriate nick-name for the University’s sports teams.

Bill

Day 16 July 4 Jackson Hole to Dubois, WY

2006-07-05T11:50:00.000-07:00

“ PURPLE MOUNTAIN MAJESTY “

It was 47 degrees this morning at 7:10 am as we rode out of Jackson Hole, WY. American flags lined the streets of this rustic Old West town on the 4th of July.

We were riding 88 miles to Dubois (pronounced Du Boy by the locals). We immediately entered a National Elk Refuge at the edge of town–and did in fact see several elk grazing at a distance. We watched 2 colorful hot air balloons rise in the morning thermals against a back drop of the majestic snow capped Teton Mountains.

It was a National Geographic morning as we cycled along on a road parallel to the peaks. We all took plenty of pictures. I must have heard the words “Wow”, and “look at that!” a hundred times on today’s ride. It was spectacular scenery against a bright blue sky. Eventually we passed a cut-off road to Yellowstone N P located about 60 miles north of our location. We passed a sign that said: “Be Bear Aware”. We happened to be on the same route where a bear attacked an off road hiker a few days ago.

We had a medium grade (6% max) uphill climb for 15 miles beginning at the 42 mile mark. Finally, at the 57 mile mark we reached the summit of Tagwotee Pass–elevation 9658 feet. At that point we had also reached the CONTINENTAL DIVIDE. We saw several road signs during the sweaty climb that read; “Point of Interest” with an arrow pointing in one direction. Joyce (MA) made the comment: “ The only interesting point I want to see is the SUMMIT. Amen.

We saw many beautiful wild flowers all day long today–in pastures and along the road. They were identified as: Lupine, Red Cardinal, Rose Marrow, Columbine and Indian Brush among others. We also spotted The Sleeping Indian rock formation high on a cliff. It is a tourist attraction in the area.

We had a cooling and quick downhill to a small log cabin café where 10 of us had lunch while watching OLN and the Tour de France.

Unfortunately, our German friends, Eberhard and Anja, raced all day to get into the hotel by the 1:00 pm start time for the World Cup match between Germany and Italy. They were disappointed when I saw them at dinner.

The last 20 miles into Dubois (pop 982) could have been one delicious descent if not for a serious patch of road construction mid-way. We sailed into town with a breeze behind us. It felt great.

On arrival in town, we were surprised to be the tail end of the July 4th parade in this very Western town. The main street is right out of the set of “Gunsmoke”. Horses, cowboys, saloons (yes, we did join them) are the common denominator in Dubois. Fireworks are planned for sunset.

We saw America the Beautiful in its full mountainous glory today. What a ride!

Bill

Day 15 Idaho Falls to Jackson Hole, WY

2006-07-03T20:18:00.000-07:00

AWESOME TETON PASS

Jackson Hole, Teton Pass, high mountain scenery; this is the day we have been waiting for.

Today’s 88 mile trek to Jackson Hole, WY was a CLASSIC bicycle ride. We had 5600 feet of challenging climbing, including over two mountain passes in the Tetons. We saw some of the most beautiful and memorable scenery in America. It is a ride we will remember and talk about for the rest of our lives.

We had enjoyed our time in Idaho falls, learned a bit about bicycle mechanics, and had a relaxing Sunday afternoon.

This morning departure was at 6:30 am –we would be on the road until 3:00 pm. We could see in the haze ahead the peaks of the Tetons. We knew from route rap that the summit of Teton Pass from which we would descend into Jackson Hole was at 8431 feet. We would not begin our “assault” on the summit until the 70 mile mark in today’s ride, and in the afternoon heat. The climb to the summit would require pedaling up 2400 feet in 6.6 miles with a 10% to 12% grade at times. It was clear to all of us that today would be a major challenge.

In the morning riding East on Rt 26 we encountered an estimated 10 to 12 mph headwind. in the flat lands approaching the mountains. The fields we passed were as rich a GREEN as I have ever seen. It was perhaps alfalfa or hay irrigated to perfection. We cycled single file against the wind until about the 40 mile mark when we crossed over the Snake River and began to climb. We turned onto Rt 31 ; “Teton Scenic Byway”–You bet! In the town of Victor we “fueled up” with a milk shake for the climb to the summit of Teton Pass. We entered the Targhee National Forest and climbed over our first summit at Pine Creek Pass. A difficult climb in itself. BUT, the views were incredible! Here I heard the best quote of the day; “What could be more beautiful than this?”

The day’s real hard work began at the 70 mile mark. The grueling climb started here. For most of us it was the most demanding and difficult climb ever attempted. The reward was a speedy 5 mile descent, again with a 10% down slope. Dan (CA) hit 58.3 mph in his “free fall” descent. We all expected a big challenge in the Tetons.....and we found it!

Today was a banner day. It was described in so many ways at different times today: scenic, steep, windy, hot, exciting, “bloody hard”, sweaty, and exhausting. It was all of those, plus...fantastic!

Tomorrow morning on the 4th of July the ABB cyclists will wake up in one of the most beautiful spots in America: Jackson Hole, Wyoming.

Bill

Day14 Blackfoot to Idaho Falls, ID

2006-07-02T12:36:00.000-07:00

A SUNDAY RIDE

We pulled out of Blackfoot at 8:15 am this morning. It was a late start due to the short distance of today's ride. We immediately crossed over the Snake River, the first of several crossings today. It was a beautiful Sunday morning--clear and bright. We were headed for our destination; Idaho Falls.... for brunch.

Team RTC was together today for the entire ride--all 7 of for the first time, now that Dale(AZ) has arrived. Everyone had a good night's rest after yesterday's century, and we are happy about today's "shortest ride ever", knowing what is ahead of us in the next few days.

A Sunday ride in the countryside is a nice tune-up for tomorrow's "Blockbuster Day"; a climb day in the Tetons and into Jackson Hole, Wyoming.

Dan (CA) was busy filming for the DVD he has promised to make for all of us at the conclusion of the cross country trip. He has already chronicled several of our long distance tours with outstanding DVD's.

We had mostly smooth roads and quiet country lanes through Idaho farmland and horse ranches. Later on in the ride we had a long scenic stretch along the Snake River. We caught our first glimpse of the Tetons this morning. It was the ridge behind the ridge in front of us. Tomorrow we encounter those ledgendary mountains.

We rode rode our bikes into Idaho Falls on Rt 26 East looking for a brunch spot. We found it at Smitty's FamilyDiner....along with half the population of the town. We saw a "Backroads" van with 10 bicycles on top parked in town. They are "the other touring company" probably headed for the Tetons as well. Needless to say , we are not staying in the same hotel.

The scenic falls in the Snake River in Idaho Falls are right across the road from our Red Lion Inn. I took a photo of the falls with the Mormon Temple in the background.

We have a mechanics clinic at 4:00 pm this afternoon to help us improve our bicycle maintenance practices. I still have a lot to learn about properly maintaining a bicycle.

Tomorrow on the road to Jackson, WY we will find out a great deal about our conditioning and climbing abilities. There is some anxiety in the group as we look ahead.

Enjoying some time off on our last day in Idaho,

Bill

By the way: For those of you who may be wondering about the results of the Scavenger Hunt...the results are in. Team RTC was runner-up in a very close contest. We all had some fun and a lot of laughs.

Day 13 Burley to Blackfoot, ID

2006-07-01T20:14:00.000-07:00

B TO B CENTURY

We were up, had eaten a full breakfast, loaded luggage, pumped up our tires, and were on the road by 6:15 am this morning. We had the Burley to Blackfoot, ID “century plus 10 mile” ride ahead of us. We all knew that EVERY 110 mile day is tough!

There was more bucolic scenery as we looked over the potato fields toward the mountains–some with a little snow on them–in the distant background. We had some quiet country roads to ride, although the road surface was a little rough most of the morning. We think the tar and gravel roads robbed us of some speed on today’s 110 mile route.. The sun was rising on what turned out to be a beautiful Saturday . At one stretch we were on the loneliest rural road possible. Tim (ME) wondered why they had even BUILT a road there. We could see for miles in all directions ; just sagebrush, grassland and occasionally some cattle grazing We spread out and were able to ride and talk.

There were another 6 or 7 cattle guards to cross in this open-range area. I am getting better at crossing them without losing any teeth, but they do give me a jolt (especially at the bottom of a hill).

At the SAG today there was conversation about the current World Cup matches. The UK guys were excited, the French family was anxious, but the German couple was celebrating yesterday’s victory. Anja wore (removable) tattoos of the German flag on her cheek last night at dinner. Of course, we have also been talking about the Tour de France and the sad situation with the allegations of drugging in the sport. Sad.

We were never far from the Snake River or the interstate highway–we saw both from time to time. We stopped at Register Rock Park at the 45 mile mark. On the large boulder there the early pioneers in the 1860's carved their names or initials on the way to Portland, OR. Early graffiti!

The town of American Falls had a dam and reservoir for recreational boating and fishing. We then passed through the most desolate, quiet to the point of UNOCCUPIED, towns of Aberdeen (where we had ice cream), Springfield and Rockford. It was along stretch into Blackfoot. We were just hammering out the miles. The last 20 miles are the toughest.

As we entered our host city of Blackfoot biking on Rt 26, we were chased by horses running beside us inside a fenced area. Keeping our pace they trotted right up to the fence corner.

We welcomed Dale (AZ) to the ride group tonight at dinner. He is a fellow Cross Country Challenge rider and a member of our Team Rails to Trails. I presented him with his RTC jersey at route rap.

Dinner took place on the lawn outside the hotel where a caterer had set up a barbeque chicken and lasagna dinner...picnic style. Fun!

We are pleased to have a short day tomorrow—we all have tired legs and sore butts from today’s century plus. We were on the road 8 hours today–7 hours on the bike.

Enjoying the group and the cycling,

Bill

Day 12 Twin Falls to Burley, ID

2006-06-30T15:19:00.000-07:00

TEAM DAY

Today was "Team Rails to Trails Conservancy Day", as not only did we wear the team colors, but also we worked together as a team in the ABB sanctioned SCAVENGER HUNT.

The short ride from Twin Falls to Burley, ID is only 38 miles on flat terrain. It is one of the two shortest mileage days of our tour. Therefore, we departed much later this morning (8:00 am) and had plenty of time for a side trip to Shoshone Falls State Park. Were we ever glad we did!

The Falls are a spectacular sight as they cascade and fall to the massive Snake River Canyon below. We biked to the overlook down in the canyon where we all took a number of pictures of this awesome work of nature. The most difficult part of today's ride was biking back up and out of the canyon. Shoshone Falls is certainly one for the memory book.

The next stop was at Hanson Bridge, a suspension bridge over the Snake River Gorge--as deep and narrow a gorge as I have ever seen. Great sightseeing on a clear, warm day in South Central Idaho.

I could not leave Idaho without sharing with you a photo of a potato field. We have seen more than enough of them, including all day today.

After leaving the SAG, we watched a small yellow crop dusting plane on a maneuver low over the fields. Piloting a crop duster gives the appearance of being an exciting job--for awhile anyway.

The gorges, falls, and canyons along the Snake River are clearly world class in beauty and scenic impact, well beyond what I expected.

After lunch at Morey's steakhouse overlooking the Snake River in Burley, I asked a native what Burley is famous for. He thought a moment and then said "Well, it used to be known for prostitution". The town of 9800 NOW appears to have improved considerably.

The goal of the ABB scavenger Hunt was to find and present "creatively" as many of the 14 items on the list a possible. (Example: a popsicle stick, an unusual item found in the road, a church key, etc.) I think Team RTC has a good chance to win this contest. "News at 6:00"--when we receive the results.
Hoping for victory,

Bill

Day 11 Mountain Home to Twin Falls, ID

2006-06-29T15:27:00.000-07:00

SNAKE RIVER GORGE

After a bountiful buffet breakfast at AJ's Country Kitchen Restaurant we were on the bikes and on the road at 6:30 am. The sun was coming up and a little rain was falling when a small group of us missed a turn early on in the ride. Fortunately, we didn't go too far out of the way--only a few miles. It was enough to turn this a scheduled 97 mile bike ride into a 100 mile "century" ride.

We were headed for Twin Falls, ID, where a famous event occurred in 1974.

The overcast skies were welcome, and did in fact keep the temperaures mild all day. It was a relief that the scattered showers in the area missed the ABB cyclists.

The landscape during the early miles was the sagebrush and parched grasses we have seen for days. It turned to irrigated farmland and the green fields brought about by imported water. We have seen so many ingenious and diverse systems of irrigation, from diversion canals to a multitude of sprinklers types.

Past the town of Hammet we turned onto business 84, which parallels the Interstate and runs along the Snake River. We were pelted by little black gnats as we rode. Not a pleasant experience.

The town of Glenns Ferry at the 30 mile mark was the location of the first SAG. We then rode through the towns of King Hill and Bliss (we all liked that name) in a stretch covering 20 miles. I don't think I saw but one pickup truck. These were country roads with solitude.

A big canyon opens up in Bliss with the Snake River running through it. We passed a sign that said "bikers welcome" at the Outlaws and Angels Bar and Grill. I don't think they meant our kind. Do you?

The second SAG at the 60 mile mark was in the City Park in the town of Hagerman. We observed large scale cattle farms for 15-20 miles past Hagerman. These were milking cows caught in the grip of modern milk production farming.

Just outside of Twin Falls at the scenic overlooks we had great photo ops of the Snake River Gorge. We stoppped at the site where Evil Kneivil attempted his famous rocketed motorcycle jump over the awesome 1 mile canyon. Of course he failed, but the town has marketed well not only the beautiful gorge , but also Evil's famous event which occured here in 1974. We crossed over "the tallest bridge in the world", but missed the opportunity to see the "base jumpers". They jump off the bridge with parachutes. Tomorrow we visit the scenic waterfalls at Twin Falls.

I think we all had a good day today. Several groups , including ours, moved right along today. We were "home" rather early and feel good after 100 miles of Southern Idaho road cycling.

Several members of TEAM RTC celebrated another great biking century with a Fosters at Outback.

Bill

Day 10 June 28 Boise to Mountain Home, ID

2006-06-28T14:29:00.000-07:00

DESTINATION MILES

As we weaved out of Boise we could see the small mountains/big hills outside this State Capitol City. We have been told by the locals - at the bike shops and in town- that these hills are covered with more than 50 miles of super mountain biking trails.

It was 7:30 am on a cloudy morning. The Rest Day was over....we were back at "WORK"; biking 50 miles to Mountain Home, Idaho. Like all work days, some are easier, less strenuous than others. This was one of those less taxing days; relatively low mileage and essentially flat terrain. However, they do average out. Tomorrow is a 97 mile day in HEAT--according to forcasts.

For 6 or 7 miles we rode on a pedestrian only bicycle path that is part of the great pathway system in Boise. It took us out of town. We then passed a huge complex for Micron Technology, a maker of PC's and chips on the outskirts of the city.

At mile marker 13 we got on I-84 and rode it to mile 44, the exit for our host city Mountain Home, ID. I was initially impressed with the condition of the bike path on the highway, but true to form for all interstate highways it had its share of debris: shattered truck tires, glass etc. Two or more bikers stopped to help fix a flat tire was a common sight, as flats are a continual problem on the big highways. We counted 12 flat tires at route rap this evening.

The view all day was simply brown, parched rolling hills on both sides of the road. It was not farmland, not built-up, and not particularily pretty...just open sagebrush Idaho land.

The trucks rolled by at 80 mph--too close and too loud for comfort. Joyce (MA) called this a "destination day", that is a day memorable only for getting to the designated destination, not for the scenery or challenge. These are not among the "great miles" we have cycled in Oregon and appreciated so much. These are "destination miles" necessary to get to the finish line.

W e arrived at Mountain Home before noon, ate lunch near the motel, and w-a-i-t-e-d for our rooms to be ready. Many cooled off in thepool and enjoyed snacks provided by the Best Western.

Bill

Day 9 Boise, ID

2006-06-27T13:55:00.000-07:00

REST DAY

It is apparent that all 56 cyclists are enjoying the rest day in this great City of Boise, Idaho. Small groups have been spotted in many of the downtown bike shops, outdoor cafes, and ice cream parlors. The 100 degree heat is not a concern today; a non-biking day.

This afternoon and evening groups are attending a local Basque festival, A Shakespeare play in the open air, a minor league baseball game, or have reservations at several nearby restaurants.

Enjoying the day with friends,
Bill

Day 8 June 26 Ontario to Boise, ID

2006-06-26T21:03:00.000-07:00

WELCOME TO IDAHO !

(NOTE: see photos added to Day 6 and 7)

Early this morning, about 2 blocks East of our hotel, we saw the sign "Welcome to Idaho "- as we biked across the Snake River bridge on our way to Boise.

It was only 62 miles to Boise and our first Rest Day....and we were all ready! Ready for some R and R!

As we stopped at a traffic light in Fruitland, ID, I noticed the license plates that read "Idaho Famous Potatos". We observed many of the farms on which they are grown as we biked through mile after mile of irragated farmland. The rolling hills here reminded some of us of our endless days in Missouri, cycling "the land of 1000 hills".

We stopped for a photo at the fence of a buffalo ranch and talked about the healthful benefits of buffalo burgers, which we have seen on many menus in the area.

At the SAG at the 32 mile mark we were joined by Diana, who had completed this ride a few years ago. she had brought a stack of cookies for us. SOOOOO, today, I went off my health kick (temporarily) and had a couple of chocolate chips. I was not alone.

After the SAG the traffic picked up as we reached the town of Middleton. We noticed many roadside fireworks stands gearing up for July 4th. The bike lane was now on a busy road--we were riding single file and cautious of the passing cars and trucks.

It was an enjoyable ride through the pleasant suburb of Eagle. We passed a golf course and rode through the streets of the upscale neighborhoods of Boise.

Many of us stopped (on ABB's recommendation) in Hyde Park, a quaint section of Boise with outdoor cafes and shops, where we had lunch. With all of us wearing our ABB jerseys, we are a target for inquiring minds. "You are riding WHERE?", "How many miles do you ride each day?" , "Why?" etc . They all wish us well and say "Be safe".

With as large a group of cyclists as we have, I am still getting acquainted with some of the riders. It is a congenial group, who all seem to be enjoying the adventure. Perhaps no one more than Kent (VA), who attempted the 2005 AA-N ride, but met misfortune on Day 1 in Astoria, OR. In a fall he broke his collarbone and was unable to continue. He is back this year and said: "With every crank down the road, I am a happy man". My sentiments ....exactly.

The ABB gang is staying at a Courtyard by Marriott near the Boise State campus. We have already discovered the Bighorn Brewing Company's Sports Bar a few blocks away. Tomorrow we clean our bikes, do laundry, pick up needed items at the bike shop ......and REST!

Bill

Day 7 June 25 Baker City to Ontario, OR

2006-06-26T14:47:00.000-07:00

FEELING THE HEAT

Our Sunday ride to Ontario was 83 miles southeast on a clear, hot day in Eastern Oregon. We did not have any serious climbs, or terrific scenery today. We did experience HEAT and the toll it takes on a long distance cyclist.

Today we left the Wallowa Mountains in the rear view mirror, we changed our watches to Mountain time, and we biked to within sight of the Idaho border. We saw plenty of cattle ranches, farmland, dry sagebrush, and some rough road. We biked on Old Oregon 30, a quiet country road that gave us some real good downhills, and the opportunity to spread out and talk.

At the 30 mile mark next to a hugh cement plant, we entered I-84, our debut appearance on an interstate highway. We had a wide bike lane that was surprisingly NOT cluttered with debris, and a ride that was mostly downhill. There were barren hills on both sides of the road. This was not the Oregon that we had come to love over the past week. One thing I was happy about in leaving the open range area, however, is the dissappearance of CATTLE GUARDS--those rolling bars in the road to keep cattle restricted. They can jar you silly!

It was 87 degrees at 10:30 am. It would get worse.

We had some "fly zones" where we could really let it rip on the route today. At the 50 mile mark we were descending fast toward a lake down below. It was a long downhill, so I thought I'd go for it. I got to 40 mph which is as fast as I have ever gone on a bike. I was in a tuck position at this point, when I zipped past a sign that said "Farewell Bend". I thought that might be an omen and I didn't want to say "fare-well" on this trip, so I slowed down and stopped to have a photo taken at and old stagecoach at the lake.

There are a lot of strong riders in this group, particularly the Europeans, in fact all the Europeans. It is a good collection of experienced cyclists.

The SAG stop at mile 56 was located on the bank of the Snake River. We watched fishermen out in their boats presumeably trying to catch the famous steelhead.

The "run into the barn"--the last 25 miles--was much more difficult than I expected. Most everone agreed with me later on. It was very HOT! We were at the end of several hard days of cycling, so it was a tough pull into Ontario. We had one rider briefly hospitalizied at the end of the day with heat exhaustion/dehydration, but he is back with us now. It was 101 degrees as we arrived at the hotel; we were hot, tired, and thirsty.

Tomorrow we finish in Boise, ID--and have a REST DAY there.

Bill

Day 6 June 24 John Day to Baker City, OR

2006-06-25T18:58:00.000-07:00

THREE PEAKS

Four former Cross Country Challenge mates and I left this morning at 6:15 am heacded 81 miles up the road to Baker City, OR. We rode into the rising sun on a quiet Saturday morning. In our path today were 3 major peaks to climb and an elevation gain of 5800 feet.

I felt surprisingly good this morning after yesterday’s “monster” ride. I guess a good night’s sleep does miracles.

Ilkka (MA) , who was born in Finland, joined us after awhile. I noticed a button on his bike bag with the initials: SISU. I asked what it meant, and he said, “It is Finnish for TOUGHNESS AND DETERMINATION”. He explained that it was the slogan of the Finns when in 1939 the Russians invaded Finland, and the small Finnish army held off the mighty Russia for a period of time. It fits Ilkka’s attitude and riding style perfectly.

It was just us and the birds and the grazing cattle on this peaceful weekend morning. The temperature was in the low 40's under clear blue skies...not a cloud. We rode on route 26 East again; accurately named Oregon’s Scenic Byway.

At Prairie City (after a photo of the gang on a covered wagon), we began to climb to the summit of Dixie Mountain at 5277 feet. After a fast, but chilly, descent we then climbed to the summit of Tifton Mountain, and finally to Snall summit.

We rode up and down for a period, and then a steep downhill into the town of Sumpter, often facing a new ridge of TALL snow capped mountains in the distance. This Oregon is unbelievable! We followed the Powder River for 20 miles while pace -lining our way into Baker City.

You “gotta” love a ride with these intoxicating descents and continuous awesome scenery....even if you have to climb for hours to enjoy them!

As an unexpected bonus, we were able to watch part of an exciting World Cup match at the sport’s bar in town where we had lunch (with water). AND THEN... a sanctioned cycling race -a crit- was being held in Baker City. We saw some of the racers warming up for the race through the closed-off city streets, and I talked to several of the young riders about the race in the hotel this evening. A billboard sign at the hotel welcomed the racers and ABB cyclists.

Feelin’ good and happy with my bike that is rolling along smoothly,

Bill

Day 5 June 23 Prineville to John Day, OR

2006-06-24T17:08:00.000-07:00

THE MONSTER DAY ...TURNED OUT OK!

(note: Our group was unable to get internet access last night. I will always attempt to catch up the following day)

We departed Prineville at 5:45 am this morning...the day I had termed a "monster day". Many of us ate in our rooms at 5:00 so that we would not be delayed at a restaurant breakfast. It was going to be a long and challenging day on the road. Many former AA-N cyclists and the staff said that this may be the most difficult day of our journey.

The route to John Day,OR was 117 miles East on route 26. Our bike computers recorded 5989 feet of climbing on today's ride. This combination of distance plus elevation gain over the course of the day was a real test for all of us. I was on the road for 10 hours today, finally arriving at our hotel destination at 4:00 pm. We are all tired , proud of our accomplishment and getting ready for whatever tomorrow may bring.

It was as tough a ride as we expected and as challenging a ride as I have ever done. However, It was more scenic and captivating I think, than any of us envisioned. It was an absolutely beautiful course through mountains, forests, rock canyons, along river banks, past ranches, and farms....all on a gorgeous sunny day. Oregon has such a variety of scenic beauty. Our cameas were as busy as our legs on this day. This ride was one for the books!

It was very cold leaving Prineville heading into the mountains and hot in John Day when we arrived. The terrain and vegetation changed several times as we climbed and descended our way through Central Oregon.

In the Ochoco Natoinal Forest we climbed for 15 miles to the summit of Mt Ochoco at 4720 feet. The 12 mile descent was described as: incredible, fabulous, terrific, and fun by fellow cyclists. We had returned to arid conditions with sagebrush and smaller trees amid the small cattle ranches. It is interesting to follow the changes in geology and vegetation as we ride through this region.

The high bluffs and rock formations we observed as we rode through the canyons were picture post card perfect. We biked into "Picture Gorge", which was well named.

It was a cycling day we will all remember fondly for its scenic beauty, and proudly for what we experienced and had accomplished.

Bill

Day 4 June 22 Kah-nee-ta to Prineville,OR

2006-06-22T20:11:00.000-07:00

BIKING IN CENTRAL OREGON

We departed the resort at 7:30 am in warm sunshine. The weather was a bonus on today's 61
mile ride to Prineville, OR. It was a shorter ride than normal, but we has some climbing -3900 feet- that gave us a challenge. The scenery was again remarkable and varied as we biked up and out of the box canyon from the Indian Reservation and into the small towns, farmlands, and grassy mesas of central Oregon.

We immediately encountered the first of several herds of horses roaming freely on the open range. They crossed the road in front of us and stood quietly for our cameras. Way up in the hills we saw a larger herd galloping to what must have been better grazing lands. Yesterday some cyclists suddenly came upon cattle in the road near the resort, nearly hitting them. They are restricted only by some cattle guards in the roads, which we find "jarring" when crossed on a bike.

Many of us stopped in the town of Warm Springs to tour the Indian Museum there. It showcased the history of the local tribes: the Wasco, Sahaptin, and the Pieutes. All were nomadic tribes whose main food sources were salmon, roots and berries. They moved from one location to the next to gather these food items. Three thousand Indians reside on this large reservation today.

Leaving Warm Springs and biking along side the DesShutes River with high bluffs forming a deep river valley, we watched fly fishermen standing in the rapid current trying their skills. It was a very calm setting.

We reached the saddened town of Madras at the half way point of our ride today. The trees were tied with yellow ribbons and American flags were placed beside them. The signs on banks and in store windows offered prayers and thanks to their brave soldier's family. Madras is the hometown of Pfc Thomas Tucker, one of the two soldiers recently captured and killed in Iraq. A candlelight memorial is planned for Friday night in Friendship Park-- where our SAG stop was held today.

This arid region of central Oregon has irrigated farmlands which we rode past. Our concensus opinion of the major crop we saw was OATS. My non-farm cycling companions and I later learned it was ALFALFA. We saw many other crops later in the ride ....but none of us ventured a guess as to what we were seeing. We did confirm that it was Mt Jefferson that we could see in the background of these fields.

An area designated "US National Grasslands" was next along our route. Barren, desolate land was all we could see for many miles. In the last 20 miles we had some great flats and some descents, so we let it rip into Prineville, our destination.

Tomorrow is a MONSTER DAY!.....117 miles with 5500 feet of climbing. We'll be on the road by 5:45 am. I guess I'll miss the Crooked River Rodeo scheduled for tomorrow night in Prineville. Oh well, the life of a cyclist.

Bill

Day 3 June 21 Welches to Kah-nee-ta,OR

2006-06-21T19:21:00.000-07:00

CLIMBING THE CASCADES

ABB mentioned at route rap that this would be a difficult climb day. At 6:40 am we began the 66 mile up route 26 to Kah-nee-ta, OR through the Cascade Mountains.

I was a bit apprehensive about today's ride. The instruction sheet said "go .8 mi from the hotel, turn right---Get Ready To Climb!" The first climb of the day was the longest climb at 11 miles with an average 5% grade and an elevation gain of 2500 feet. It was a cold morning, in the 40's, but we were dressed warmly in jackets, windbreakers, leg warmers etc., knowing that the descents would be very cold. We climbed slowly and steadily into the low clouds to the top. ABB had set up a SAG stop there in the Mt Hood National Forest. Everything I was wearing was wet from perspiration---it was cold.

At this 13 mile mark the route sheet read: "Now descend 1000 feet in 4 miles, then climb 1000 feet in 3 miles. At the 27 mile marker climb 800 feet in 3 miles. At 30.5 mile marker road gets narrow and desolate--you will descend 1500 feet in the next 10 miles". This was our up-and-down ride through the Cascade Mts of Oregon. It was an unforgettable experience. The old growth forest of hemlock and spruce is majestic, the air is fresh and cool, the adventure and the challenges are PRICELESS.

At several points we looked back in our rear view mirrors and saw the massive Mt Hood dominating the landscape, but getting smaller as we continued our trek East.

In all the miles of exciting down hill runs that followed the climbs today, the environment changed. The terrain became flatter, the trees were now smaller and more sparse, the grasses had turned brown and the temperature rose. In a matter of 20 miles we had gone from the steep mountain forests to the high desert of Oregon. We could now see clearly off in the distance the range of snow covered mountains which includes "the Presidents": Mt Adams, Mt Jefferson etc. They were visible as we looked across a parched sagebrush landscape at the side of the road. A complete transition of climate and scenery in such a short period of time.

After the SAG at mile 45 we turned onto route 3 and headed to the Indian Reservation near the town of Simnasko where our hotel, the Kah-nee-ta Resort, is located. These last 20 miles of the day provided as much fun as one can have on a bike. The high desert landscape was hilly, dry, sparse, rocky....beautiful. The terrain rolled up and down the box canyon to the resort. We had a 30-40 mph descent for 3 or 4 miles to the base of the canyon.....cut backs, S-turns, through high rock bluffs close to the road at fast speeds. It was a high....terrific!

The resort is spectacular: pools, a golf course, casino, etc with expansive views of the dry hills in the distance. Many bikers took to the pool for a relaxing afternoon.

Another great day on the road.

Bill

Day 2 June 20 St Helens to Welches, OR

2006-06-20T19:55:00.000-07:00

There was complete agreement about today's 75 mile ride to Welches, OR; everyone loved it! It was a great day on the bike! The route was varied and interesting, the scenery was stunning, and the weather was ideal for cycling; clear and cool. We had a few climbs (2900 ft of climbing today) and some fast descents. We crossed over the Willamette River on the St John's Bridge, and rode on an off-road bicycle path along the Columbia River for many miles.

It was appropriate that "Team RTC" suited up in our Rails-to- Trails jerseys today, as we experienced the safety and pleasure of biking on the scenic pedestrian-only bike path in North Portland, OR. Part of the ride was on the levee of the Columbia River where we passed by the airport in small groups enjoying the great pathway provided for bikers and pedestrian recreation.

It was in the town of Orient, OR that we got our first view of Mt Hood....WHOA! There it was --the massive snow covered mountain we had all been waiting to see. We had many more sightings as we rode on route 26 heading directly at it. It REQUIRED you to get off the bike and take another photo. It is a beautiful sight. Skiers and snowboarders are still on the mountain for summer training on the glacier.

The region near the mountain that we rode through today is a center for large commercial nurseries covering hundreds of acres of trees in various stages of growth. The seedlings and young trees of all types are grown here to supply local nurseries around the country.

Our hotel tonight is The Resort at the Mountain (Mt Hood), which is a first class resort with all the ammenities. It is located in a peaceful forest park setting in the Cascades. ABB has informed us that we should not get accustomed to such luxury--we have a long way to go--and a lot more Super 8's.

We have a mom and her 2 teenage sons with us on the trip. They ride a TRIPLE bike, a bicycle built for three! They are perhaps the fastest bike in the group (6 legs make it fly). The family has lived in Paris, France for the past 10 years, where the boys go to French schools. They have absolutely no accent in either language. (I'll have to try out my language skills.) All three were in University of Notre Dame biking outfits today as the father and grandfather are alumni. Mom said to me with a wink, "There is absolutely no pressure on the boys". It is an interesting group we have here.

Tomorrow is guaranteed to be a "tough day". I'll give you a report.

Bill

Day 1 June 19 Astoria to St Helens, OR

2006-06-19T20:13:00.000-07:00

Note; Please check yesterday's blog for Photos added.

This morning at 6:30 am sharp the full contingent of 64 ABB cyclists and staff jammed into the breakfast "nook" of the Best Western. The lone server had her hands full trying to keep the continental breakfast buffet table stocked with sufficient food items. We all ate, loaded our luggage onto the "box truck", and went out to the patio for a group photo on the bank of the Columbia River.

We departed smartly attired in our new ABB red, white and blue jerseys on a 69 mile trek from Astoria to St Helens, OR. The trip was entirely on route 30, "the old Oregon trail"and the path of the Lewis and Clark expedition to the Pacific. It was chilly and somewhat cloudy all day as we biked along side the Columbia River. We has 2 significant climbs today, but the total elevation gain was only some 3000 ft. In just a few days we will be facing several major climb days in the Cascades. This was an excellent "opening day" ride.

Numerous logging trucks passed us along our route. We are in the heart of pulp and paper country. The familiar odors emanating from the mills, and the sight of these smoke stacks and wood chip piles brought back memories of my many years in the industry. A photo shows the large mill complex at Longview, WA across the river from our route.

Our first SAG stop at mile 22 (see photo) was in a beautiful park setting high on a cliff overlooking the river and the mountains of Washington in the distance. I began my "eat healthier routine" at the SAG. Instead of my former standard snack of 10 Oreo cookies, I had a banana, an orange, mixed nuts, a fig newton and gatorade. I have not yet noticed a marked improvement in my riding. (Maybe I'll go back to the Oreos).

You meet remarkable people on these trips. Today riding into the SAG I talked to Don (MA) and Mike (Scotland). Don has completed 2 IronMen, 50+ marathons and 5 one hundred mile runs in under 30 hours. Incredible! Several people in their introductory comments mentioned that a long-time goal was to ride a bicycle across America. Mike said his goal was "to ride a bike AROUND THE WORLD ! He has completed the perimeter ride around Australia, the tour of Africa, and is underway across America. He plans to ride Beijing to Istanbul next. Amazing!

After a lunch stop at Richmond's Country Kitchen in Ranier, OR, we kicked up the pace for the final 20 miles into St Helens. We were told that on a clear day one can see Mt St Helens, Mt Adams, Mr Ranier and Mt Hood from this paper mill town of 10 thousand people. We are hoping for one of those clear days tomorrow.

Bill

Day 0 June 18 The Oregon Coast and Orientation

2006-06-18T20:14:00.000-07:00

Never one to arrive anywhere LATE, and wanting a few days to acclimate, I arrived in Portland, OR on Wednesday night June 15, four days before the start of our cross country bike ride. With plenty of time to adjust to the time difference and cooler temperatures, there was also the opportunity to tour Portland, drive down the beautiful Oregon Coast, and prepare my bike (and my focus) for the ride.
Gray skies and green landscapes are the mark of the Pacific Northwest. Traveling south from Astoria to Seaside to Cannon Beach along route 101, Oregon's scenic coastal highway, we saw plenty of both. The shoreline is stunningly beautiful.
Just south of Seaside, Joyce and I visited Ecola State Park at Tillamook Head with its trails and viewpoints along 9 miles of incredible cliffside shoreline. It is part of the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail . In fact, William Clark and Sacajawea came to this beach in 1806 in search of a beached whale. A park ranger informed us of the bird species that colonize the offshore rocks here: gulls, pelicans, puffins, and a colony of several hundred common meers, a small penquin look-alike which we observed nesting on the rocks. The forest landscape leading into the park was filled with majestic Western hemlock and giant Douglas fir trees growing from a forest floor of lush green ferns. This region is truly a scenic part of the American landscape, confirmed by the large numbers of tourists we saw.

The Holiday Inn Astoria is situated below the 4 mile bridge over the Columbia River into Washington State (Where " sleeping under the bridge is a GOOD thing", according to the sign out front). It is" home "to 56 cyclists and 6 ABB staff members gathering for the Across America-North ride.
My first take at some interesting statistics on the 2006 AA-N:
46 cyclists "going all the way"
10 part way riders starting in Astoria, OR
A total of 56 riders from 17 States and France, Germany, England, Scotland, Wales, and Switzerland.

4 married couples
11 women in all
About 20 riders in "my age group of 60 +/-"
Wow, what a group!
Yesterday we had a mini reunion of 2004 Cross Country Challenge riders and staff members. Our ABB leaders from that tour, Michelle and Andy, are back with us. Also from 2004 CCC we have Dan, Joyce, Tim and Kathryn and Dale. Jerry Meenk and his wife drove down from Seattle to have dinner with us last night. It is great to be with the old gang again!

As "experienced alumni", we were asked to lead the contingent of riders to today's tire dipping ceremony in the Pacific Ocean. We formed up at noon and headed to Shipwreck beach in Ft Stevens State Park about 12 miles from Astoria. We carried our bikes down to the water's edge where we touched the rear tire in the Pacific, symbolizing the start of our ocean to ocean adventure.
The orientation session covering rules, safety, rider introductions, bike mechanics etc took the better part of this afternoon and evening. Our diverse and large group is prepped and ready to go. Bring it on!